What is this divine feeling, is it happiness, is it wonder or is it perhaps spiritual? It remains intangible as I gaze upwards to the world’s highest peaks. While the feeling is indescribable, I sense a peacefulness on this most significant of days, having arrived at long last at Everest Base Camp.

I was in complete awe of my surroundings within the Everest amphitheatre, dwarfed into something beyond insignificance by the magnificent Nuptse, Pumori and Lobuche Peaks impossibly high above me.

We’d done it, we’d actually trekked to Everest Base Camp!

Day 1 Kathmandu to Ramechhap

Two in the morning and on the street outside the Thamel hotel sits a sturdy four wheel drive vehicle, roof racks on top ready for our duffle bags. It’s dark though not cold and despite the hour, there’s excitement rippling through the air. Today, is the first day of our Everest Base Camp Trek. 

As it’s peak spring season, we will be flying from Ramechhap Airport rather than Kathmandu due to the air congestion from on farm burn offs. Though Ramechhap is only about a hundred and thirty kilometres away, it’s a four or five hour drive and we soon learn that early mornings are the best time for flying in the Himalayan Mountains.

Our guide, Raju Simkhada, quickly organises us into some semblance of order, bags chucked up on top and eight of us, including the driver, somehow squeezed in. I was in the back row with a window seat and once in, there wasn’t much room for getting comfortable, where you landed, you stayed. Note to myself for next time, bring a neck pillow.

It’s a Saturday night or more accurately, Sunday morning and a few night owls were still in party mode, though much the worse for wear from the look of their antics.  Their behaviour felt at odds with what we were embarking on.

As we crawled our way out of Kathmandu, we settled down to sleep as best we could. Drifting in and out of wakefulness, I was astonished at how much traffic and people there were going about their business. When the new day dawned, I questioned my own choices, the most pressing one being, how I ended up having a window seat.

Approaching Ramechhap from high in the mountains I have an unimpeded view to the Tama Koshi River valley floor, many hundreds of feet directly below my window. My choices were limited, it was either to enjoy the spectacular mountain and river valley view far below or to continue with my calculations as to how wide the oncoming truck was when compared to the road and our own vehicle’s width. Somehow, it all worked and by six thirty, we arrived at Manthali Airport.

There were already hikers everywhere, Lukla or more accurately, Tenzing-Hillary Airport had been closed for the last three days due to low cloud. We scrambled as best we could out of the vehicle, unloaded the duffel bags off the roof and entered the airport terminal. And there we sat, waiting and waiting and waiting. For a time, planes and the odd helicopter came and went back and forth to Lukla, it was hard to know exactly what was going on though we established the low cloud was the issue. Max had limited time so elected to pay the extra and go to Lukla by helicopter. Finally, after six hours of people and plane watching, Raju advised us there’d be no more flights to Lukla that day. 

He’d already organised alternative accommodation for us in Ramechhap and our driver soon had us delivered to the door of a nearby hotel. 

Day 2 Ramechhap to Phakding

After a more civilised six a.m. pickup, we returned once more to Manthali Airport, fingers crossed that this time we’d make it out of the valley. Excitement grew when Raju handed us our boarding passes and we were shuffled through the security checks and into the inner sanctum of the Terminal to wait in the boarding lounge. There appeared to be three airlines flying between Ramechhap and Lukla, the return trip taking about an hour and once we’d figured out which airline we were with, the countdown started for their next return.

In no time at all, Raju shepherded us out onto the airfield where we queued nervously for our flight. Only helicopters and small fixed wing, propeller planes can land and take off from Lukla, known as one of the highest and most dangerous airports in the world due to its topography, weather, location, airport size and traffic volume. 

Taking a deep breath or two, Andrew and I settled into our seats immediately behind the pilot, who was separated from us by only a loose curtain. Usually when flying, there’s the sensation of gaining elevation and then the reverse as you come in to land. Ramechhap elevation is 1,370 metres and Lukla 2,800 metres so on this flight, it was a constant climb, That is, aside from the sudden drops caused by the turbulence. 

Leaving Ramechhap we were quickly surrounded by stunning mountains with tiny picture postcard farms, terraced fields and homes in what appeared to be completely inaccessible locations. With clear blue skies, the majestic, snow capped Himalayan mountains came into view and within just moments, the pilot was lining us up to land on the tiny two hundred and forty metre long runway. As we taxied rapidly to the gate, I’m pretty sure I wasn’t the only one breathing more easily!

Walking around the end of the terminal minutes later I noticed our plane already readying itself for departure. With the fluctuating weather, time is of the essence for these airlines if they are to successfully transfer hikers to and from the trail head of possibly the most famous trek in the world, the Everest Base Camp Trek.

Lukla town is right alongside the airport with souvenir shops, outdoor stockists and hotels alongside the main thoroughfare. Stopping for breakfast, we met our three porters, the brothers Prashant, Phurtenji and Bhakta Tamang who were local to the Khumbu district. Along with our guide, Raju, these men were going to play an integral role during our trek. As well as each carrying two of our ten kilogram duffel bags, they also carried their own backpack plus Bhakta carried a cardboard carton of fresh fruit with nuts to supplement the hotel food.

Leaving Lukla, we passed under the Pasang Lhamu Gate, stopping briefly while Raju completed the necessary formalities that registered us as trekkers in the Sagarmatha National Park. While we waited, there was plenty to observe, the incredible views, the mule trains, the porters carrying unbelievable loads and countless other hikers from a myriad of countries.

Today’s goal was to reach Phakding, a relatively short trek and surprisingly, downhill from Lukla. We were there within three hours and considering the variables of the flight, it made sense to not plan for too long a walk for the first day.

Day 3 Phakding to Namche Bazaar

Raju had determined our daily routine, we were to rise at daybreak, pack up our duffle bags ready for the porters, have breakfast at the tearooms then be on the trail at the best time of day weather wise, ahead of the crowds and enabling us to reach that night’s lodging by mid afternoon.

I wasn’t yet familiar with the names of the villages and towns we’d pass through but Namche Bazaar was one I’d known about seemingly forever. Located in the Sagarmatha National Park, it’s the largest town and beautiful Sherpa capital. It’s very well stocked with outdoor and trekking equipment so if you’ve forgotten anything or need to replace something, this is the place to do it.

The first of the daffodil, cherry and magnolia blossoms were gently unfurling their petals, turning to face the sun. From early in the morning, I was pleasantly surprised at how warm it was and considered my long sleeved, black shirt, chosen for it’s modesty, may have been attracting more heat than was necessary as we trekked up and down the hills.

Following alongside the spectacular Dudh Koshi River gorge we soon came to our first swing or suspension bridge. Etiquette is that the porters along with the mule and yak trains have right of way on the bridges and trails. As recommended by Raju, when we saw or heard them coming, we’d step safely to the mountainside of the trail so that the animals passed on the riverside. The mules and yaks wore a bell around their necks and we grew used to the constant tinkle, in time, being able to identify the higher toned tinkle of the mule bells when compared to the lower dong of the yaks’ bells.

The Hillary Bridge was suspended well over a hundred metres above the raging Dudh Koshi River where far below, enormous boulders balanced ungainly on others, testimony to the River’s enormous strength. Colourful Buddhist prayer flags whispered their messages of peace, compassion, strength and wisdom in the breeze, spreading goodwill and kindness into the surrounds. Beyond the forested valley the snow capped Himalayan mountains kept a watchful eye.

Shortly after commencing the strenuous eight hundred metre climb up to Namche Bazaar from the Bridge, we were alerted to an unmarked lookout spot, the first place to view Sagarmatha or Mount Everest, away in the distance. Things were starting to get real! 

Day 4 Namche Bazaar Acclimatisation Day

As we were staying a second night in Namche Bazaar, our morning was a little more relaxed without the need to pack up our gear ready for the porters to collect. 

Given the mountainous terrain on the Everest Base Camp Trek, acclimatisation is a vital consideration and this was to be our first day of resting and adjusting. We’d now increased our altitude by six hundred metres since leaving Lukla two days earlier. 

But this was not to be a day off, relying on Raju’s expertise, we knew not to spend the day enjoying Namche Bazaar’s many attractions. Instead, he had us out and about nice and early for a walk. The science is that you walk to a higher elevation and then sleep lower which assists in your bodies adaptation to the changes in the environment. I’d not journeyed this far to not follow the expert advise and was more than happy to explore Namche Bazaars outlying attractions, even if it meant another taxing uphill walk.

It was colder at this higher altitude and I started the day with my lightweight gloves, beanie and puffer jacket on. 

We first climbed to the Tenzing Norgay - Sherpa Heritage Centre based at the Sagarmatha National Park Headquarters. 2023 was the 70th Anniversary of the first ascent of Mount Everest by Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmund Hillary and the Centre is well worth visiting not only for the spectacular views but also to contemplate the many exhibits and information in the newly renovated museum and auditorium.

Leaving there, we made our way back down to Namche Bazaar then headed up to the highest hotel in the world, the Everest View Hotel located at 3,880 metres. On a clear day the vista of Everest and surrounding mountains jut into the upper atmosphere. Alas, for us, it was not a clear day though I found the more immediate views equally fascinating, particularly, the tourists who’d arrived by helicopter from Kathmandu and were now quaffing back bottles of champagne. I can only imagine it must have been thirsty work walking in from the heliport located just outside in the Hotel’s garden.

We then called into the Sagarmatha Next Recycle Centre where there’s digital exhibits and up-cycled sculptures. With a focus on sustainable tourism, our group quickly bought into the concept of Carry Me Back bags, each of us committing to picking up a kilo of pre packaged rubbish on our return journey to carry back down to Lukla where it can then be sent on to be property recycled.

We returned back down to Namche Bazaar with greater appreciation of our surrounds and sill with with plenty of time to then explore the numerous bakeries, cafes, pubs and trekking supply stores. Friends even went off to a day spa to enjoy a little high altitude pampering and massage.

Day 5 Namche Bazaar to Tengboche

When our flight in to Lukla was delayed by one day, it resulted in Raju having to rebook all of our hotels. The airport had already been closed for the three days prior to our delay resulting in quite a backlog of hikers coming through meaning accommodation was going to be at capacity. 

We  had planned to stay at Tengboche but due to the backlog, there were no beds available on top of the hill. Raju was fortunately able to locate another hotel, a little further on and down the hill at Deboche. The benefits of having an expert guide were abundantly clear and I’d not consider this walk without one.

We hadn’t yet risen above the tree line and in places the rhododendron forest lined the trail, the trees covered in buds, a few already exploding into a profusion of pink and white blossoms. Unlike my rhododendron shrub at home, these were magnificent forest giants. 

The farmers has been hard at work preparing the fields for the spring crops and we saw many fields with onion, garlic and what appeared to be spinach. After harvest, the farmers stored their potatoes in a deep earthen hole in the field, covering the potatoes back over until they were needed. The fields were ploughed with a simple wooden plow pulled by a yak.  Each field was encircled by dry stone walls, an abundant local material. Anything not local has to be carried in by a porter as there’s no roads in this area. 

We continued on, walking through tiny villages and past many mani walls, stupas and strings of prayer flags. The Sherpas live and breathe their Buddhist religion in every aspect of their life.

Another big climb of around 600 metres found us at the Tengboche Monastery, it’s the largest Gompa in the Khumbu Region and has panoramic views of the Himalayan Mountains including Tawache, Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam and Thamserku. It is a breathtaking location and I could sense the deep spirituality of the place.

Originally built in 1916, Tengboche Monastery has been twice destroyed and subsequently rebuilt. In 1934 it was destroyed by an earthquake and in 1989 by an electrical fire.

Six prayer wheels lead to the entrance gate where two majestic lions stand sentinel, visible behind the encircling walls are temples, dwellings, religious statues and stupa. Hikers and climbers are encouraged to visit the Tengboche Monastery to receive blessings from the Monks that will serve to protect them in this volatile landscape. 

On arriving at our hotel, I noted the day’s temperature range was minus five to four degrees celsius. This was a big hotel with three stories and Andrew and my room was on the third floor. It was certainly cold with the hallways being open to the outside. The hotel had capacity for one hundred people though there was only one shower to be shared by all.

Day 6 Tengboche to Dingboche

Having stayed at Deboche, we had a small head start on the day and as the elevation increased, every little bit helped. 

Once over four thousand metres, the effects of altitude sickness are more likely to be felt with headaches, extreme tiredness, nausea and vomiting indicators that the depleted oxygen levels are slowly taking their toll. Hydration is one of the most important ways to keep Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) at bay and it’s recommended you drink at least a couple of litres of water a day. As well as staying adequately hydrated, we chose to take medication from the time we left Kathmandu until our return.  

Although the distances walked each day are not far, it’s the altitude that makes it challenging and Raju reminds us often to take it "slowly slowly".

Andrew and I had by now realised that if we caught up to our Porters taking a break, it meant there was a big climb around the corner! We started to mirror their efforts and as soon as we saw them stop to take a load off, we did the same though of course there was no comparing our measly five kilogram day bags to the weight that they were carrying.

We were all in awe of what all the porters were carrying, while the trekking porters might be carrying around twenty to thirty kilograms, the other porters were transporting unbelievable loads on their backs. 

Many times we stopped, not only to make way for the porters but to gaze dumbstruck by the sheer size of their loads. It was not uncommon to see loads of food, drinks including alcohol, building materials such as timber and roofing iron, multiple mattresses and kitchen supplies. We even saw one porter carrying a pot belly stove plus chimney and yet another was on his way to Base Camp with an Arm Chair. These porters are paid by the weight of their load, the bigger the load, the better the pay. It’s a tough life and I’ve nothing but respect for them in what is undoubtedly a tough job in an extreme environment.

The larger loads were carried by the mule and yak trains, until finally, it was only the yaks that could cope with the cold and the mules turned back. Many times we followed yaks carrying loads of coal, fuel and gas bottles. The hotels are dependent on solar and fossil fuels as there’s very limited hydro electric power in the mountains. Each night, lights go out early, not that anyone wants to stay up late after the day’s big efforts.

Raju named the mountains that surrounded us though I had trouble remembering their names. That is, apart from Ama Dablam. A site to behold, it’s towering massif of 6,812 metres dominates all other peaks in the region. Eclipsing it’s neighbours, Ama Dablam’s distinctive features came to be the one mountain that I could easily recognise. 

Day 7 Dingboche Acclimatisation Day

Our second acclimatisation day, at Dingboche is nearly 1,000 metres higher than than our first at Namche Bazaar and 1,600 metres more than at Lukla. We’re now well above the tree line and the valley floor is dusty due to the lack of humidity at this elevation. Though the landscape is barren, the sheer majesty of the Himalayas are awe inspiring. 

With it’s exposed valley location, Dingboche is a cold town, particularly if it’s windy and with night time temperatures sometimes plummeting to minus twenty degrees celsius. On the other hand, with no trees to shelter you from the sun, it’s easy to get sunburnt, even while being cold. Wearing a buff helps to keep the wind and sun off our lips though breathing through it takes a little getting used to. Today’s temperature range, not counting the wind chill, is a balmy minus eight to zero degrees celsius. I was pleased to see, even with the huge mountains all around, the sun reached the Teahouse by six thirty in the morning helping to take the chill off the air. 

After breakfast, we head up Nangsar hill which is immediately behind Dingboche to again aid in our acclimatisation. It’s staggering how much effort it takes at this elevation and we all huff and puff our way up the hill stopping often to "take photos". The views though are simply breathtaking as we look down into Dingboche with its checkerboard of neighbouring farms and raging glacial river or gaze up with reverence to Ama Dablam and the other Himalayan Mountains. I watch an eagle soaring at eye level, gliding easily on invisible currents, it feels good to be alive.

Each Teahouse has a small selection of snacks, chocolate bars, biscuits and chips as well as bottled water. Once above Namche Bazaar, we pay extortionate amounts for semi hot showers and wifi, though admittedly slightly wacky that we believe we need it. But hey, the Freewheeling Kiwi audience is waiting for their daily update and I’m only to pleased to share this wonderful experience with you. I don’t begrudge the costs of the goods and services provided, not when you see how difficult it is to transport everything here and am happy to contribute to the local communities.

Dingboche has a limited range of cafes and small shops spread throughout the village. To Andrew and my delight, we find a French Bakery and tuck into the largest slice of chocolate cake we could find. It’s not that we’re hungry, the Teahouse meals are more than enough and we’ve discovered that by ordering the local specialty, Dahl Bhat, the staff will continue to top our plates up until we roll out of the restaurant! While at the Bakery, I also buy a map of the region, although I’ve all the Apps, they aren’t the same as opening out a big paper map on the table and tracing a line of where we’ve been and eagerly looking ahead to where we’re going. With Raju’s quiet words of encouragement, I try to remember the names of the Mountains though relieved there’s not going to be a test at the end of the Trek.

Day 8 Dingboche to Lobuche

With my finger, I draw a heart in the ice that covered the inside of the Tearoom windows while waiting for my porridge to arrive. Experience has shown Andrew and I, that a breakfast of warm porridge and a cup of green tea is best when we’re hiking. It provides us with the kind of sustained energy we’d shortly need. I wondered later if the Tearoom cleaner was grumbling at my impertinence of drawing on the window. 

We again turn our backs on the beautiful Mount Ama Dablam and head up the hill behind Dingboche though no where near to the elevation we’d experienced yesterday. That and more will come as the day progresses. Today’s challenge is to get up and over the Tugla Pass and on the way, we jump over frozen puddles and step as best we can around rough terrain. 

I’m fascinated by a stone farmhouse which appears almost to have grown from the ground that it stands on. Currently empty, the herders will return with their stock with the warmer weather bringing back the alpine grasses. It looks like it’ll be slim pickings for the yaks especially as the region is experiencing the effects of global warming.

After the usual early lunch, we begin the climb to Tugla Pass, all of us finding our own pace as we spread out along the trail. The Porters go on ahead with our bags while Raju brings up the rear. A trained professional, he’s ever watchful of his charges and offers kind words of encouragement when needed. With a commendable one hundred percent success rate at getting his novice trekkers to Everest Base Camp, we neither want to let him or ourselves down and we all pay close attention to his expert advise.

On reaching Tugla Pass, the extreme dangers of the environment we’re in are brought home to us .There’s dozens of Memorial Chortens for climbers who have sadly lost their lives in the Everest region. I’m drawn to one in particular and recognise the name of Rob Hall, a New Zealand mountaineer and guide who forever rests on the South Summit of Everest. To walk around the Chortens is to wonder about one’s own earthly life. With immense gratitude, we continue our walk.

We enter the final terrain change of the trek as the landscape transforms, leaving behind any glimmer of alpine grass and entering the glacial moraine section. I’m thrilled to see the enormous Khumbu Glacier which now dominates our experience as we continue slowly towards Everest Base Camp. At this stage, my very limited knowledge of the Glacier is being aware that crossing the Khumbu Icefall is regarded as one of the most dangerous sections for those aiming to summit Sagarmatha (Everest) via the South Col route.

Day 9 Everest Base Camp

Lobuche to Everest Base Camp via Gorakshep. 

There’s no need for an early morning alarm, sleeping at nearly five thousand metres is arduous, it’s more of a doze than a proper sleep and headaches are common. Raju has our day all mapped out and by five thirty, we’re ready for our first breakfast. It’s essential to continue to eat well, no matter how you feel as this helps with any altitude sickness. We head out at six thirty, the weather looks promising, the sky is blue and there’s only a few high clouds drifting by the mountains. 

The Khumbu Glacier is below us and there’s frequent avalanches, rockfalls, cracks and groans as the glacier forces it’s way further down the valley. We are walking on the moraine wall and the trail is rocky requiring almost total concentration. Due to the perpetual shifting and movement of the glacier, it’s not practical to keep this section of trail to the same standard as the earlier trails. 

Some hikers from other groups have opted to ride ponies during the last few days and these small sturdy animals pass us by, delicately picking their way amongst the rocks. The riders appear outlandishly large for these wee courageous horses and I wonder at the wisdom when I watch an especially large hiker cum rider get off for a smoke. 

By nine we’re ordering our second breakfast at Gorak Shep, once more, potatoes and a fried egg which has become a staple. I read the signs on the walls; Check Out Time 9.00am. Please be Punctual. Check In Time 9:00am.  At least the bed will be warm. When outside, I’m now wearing all my layers, I wear my buff, balaclava, beanie and hoodie all at one. I’ve two pairs of gloves on and still my hands sting from the cold, not helped by my constant removal of the gloves for photography. It’s a dry cold, today’s temperature range is minus eighteen to minus eight degrees celsius, I’ve never experienced anything like it.

By ten o’clock, there’s not a cloud to be seen and the depth of the sky’s blue set off against the brilliant white of the snow capped mountains brings fresh enthusiasm to our group as we embark on the final three kilometres to Everest Base Camp. Nuptse, Pumori and Lobuche Peaks create an otherworldly amphitheatre, there’s undeniably something special about this place.

The mules stopped lower down but the yaks and porters continue on by, taking essentials to Base Camp, seen now in the distance, tiny scraps of yellow alongside the Khumbu Glacier. Despite the cold and laboured breathing, having the end in sight lifts our spirts further. The terrain is undulating, the surface rocky and Base Camp slips in and out of our sight.

Everest appears, from this position, a tiny peak almost hidden behind the huge bulk of Nuptse. We are so thankful for the clear blue skies and sunshine. On our approach to Everest Base Camp,  the background is dominated by a distinct pyramidal mountain that’s actually in China, a timely reminder that the boundary between Nepal and Tibet crosses the summit of Everest.

It’s quarter to twelve as we skirt around a frozen lake, huge icicles hang off every rock, crystals sparkle like unpolished chunks of diamonds and beneath our feet we can hear the musical tinkle of melting water. Excited hikers are congregating ahead, the mood contagious and in an instant, we’ve arrived at Trekker’s Point. 

I take in the world’s tallest peaks standing sentry above me, the depth of the sky’s blue reaching to infinity and beyond, then turning inward, the excited chatter went silent as I gave thanks for this unique moment. 

Day 10 Gorakshep to Pangboche

Waking to the sounds of hikers stomping around in the hallway, I tuck the quilt more snuggly around me and dive deeper into my sleeping bag, deciding Kala Patthar can wait.  Though the sunrise walk up to Kala Patthar’s 5,643 metre view point is definitely worth it, the cold and lack of sleep more than dampened my enthusiasm. As we enjoy breakfast at over 5,160 metres, some of the early birds return, having found it too cold and strenuous to continue. I secretly congratulate myself on my decision to remain in bed.

It’s a relief to know we’re heading down to 4,000 metres, tonight, we’ll at last breathe more easily and catch up on some sleep. Chatting happily, we jubilantly pass hikers on their way to Everest Base Camp, their laboured breathing their only sound. As we’re now descending, there’s no need to go slow and we cover the ground much faster than on our way up.

We breeze over the Tugla Pass, once more paying our respects as we move amongst the Memorial Chortens. Stopping again at Thukla for lunch, we so appreciate the feeling of heading downhill. Having started nine days earlier in Lukla at 2,800 metres we’d then climbed up to Everest Base Camp at 5,364 metres. We’d ascended however far more than the difference between those two elevations. Everest Base Camp trek is undulating, every day brings big ups and almost as big downs and the ascension to Namche Bazaar and Tengboche are two of the bigger climbs.

With no need to return to Dingboche today, we detoured through the lower valley, passing through Pheriche where there’s a rudimentary hospital managed by the Himalayan Rescue Association. 

Unfortunately yet thankfully, helicopters play a vital role in transporting hikers and climbers plus building materials and essential goods to the villages. The sound of them was a constant in the morning as they took advantage of the settled conditions. I say unfortunately as this beautiful region is already impacted by climate change and yes, I am aware of the hypocrisy in that privileged observation. I say thankfully as in a genuine emergency, I’d be the first one on that chopper. Incidentally, as a tourist with deep pockets, it’s now possible to fly from Kathmandu by helicopter directly to Everest Base Camp. It’ll save you a lot of bother, but is it the same experience?

Day 11 Pangboche to Namche Bazaar

Though only ten days have passed since we came by this way, the rhododendron and magnolia blossoms are far more advanced and their soft pinks and whites are a delight to see. 

The Sagarmatha National Park is a UNESCO listed World Heritage Site and incidentally, the world’s highest National Park. Inhabited by Sherpa’s, our introduction to their hospitality, culture and traditions has given me great pleasure. Coming from New Zealand and with a rural background, Andrew and I have been fascinated to view the traditional Sherpa farming practices involving yaks and crops. He was especially interested to see the recycling of the yak dung which as well as for fertilising the crops and fields, is dried and used to fuel the fires. In a region where it is such a process to bring in substitutions, nothing is wasted.

Looking down the steep trail, a porter was making his way slowly up towards us. Over his head loomed a chimney and on passing as we stepped aside to let him by, we turned to watch him. It was not only the chimney he was carrying, but the entire pot belly stove. Most of the porters that we saw on Everest Base Camp trek are male. We watched boys of about fifteen learning this essential skill, starting with smaller loads and gradually increasing as they become stronger.

Souvenir tables line the path in Kunde with brightly coloured beadwork, yak and mule bells, woven belts made from yak wool and brass healing bowls demanding attention. The locally made handcrafts are beautiful and I am taking home a yak bell, the sonorous chime a cherished memory of this trip. 

Back at Namche Bazaar, chocolate cake once again drew us out into the cold and for another exploration of the tiny streets. There are shops selling outdoor gear, handcrafts, souvenirs, clothing and even medications which in other places, you’d need a prescription. 

Day 12 Namche Bazaar to Lukla

As promised, we picked up our one kilogram Carry Me Back bag full of recycled water bottles as we left Namche Bazaar. Hanging off the back of our daypack, we didn’t notice any difference in the weight we were carrying. What a difference ten days can make, delicate cherry blossoms, daffodils, polyanthus and pansies now joined the profusion of rhododendron flowers.

Throughout the trip including all the way to Gorakshep the food has been excellent with plenty of choice on the menus. Breakfasts chosen by our group were typically toast, muesli, porridge, Tibetan bread, pancakes and omelettes. Lunches and dinners were rice based with fried, chicken, buff (buffalo) and vegetable rice. 

Momos remain a favourite, either vegetable or meat versions. There were various chowmein s available including vegetable, egg, buff and chicken. Best value is the Nepali meal as we soon discovered we’d be given endless refills! Burgers, sandwiches, steak, pizza and pasta were available as well. 

There’s a large range of hot and iced coffees or iced teas. I typically had black tea which came with ginger, lemon or mint though milk was available. As a green tea drinker we’d brought our own teabags from Thamel and supplemented the black tea with them. 

Namche Bazaar has a number of pubs and on our last night there, the Irish Bar was doing a roaring trade. The late night revellers were still in party mode as they followed us over to the Carry Me Back station however they became rapidly more subdued as the day went on. I can only hope they visited the dispensary for some headache tablets before hitting the trail for the last time.

The Khumbu Region now relies on tourism and has been very successful in adapting to the needs of the hikers and mountaineers offering every possible good and service you’ll need. As a result, it’s the wealthiest region in Nepal. In order to trek in this incredible environment, we required a Khumbu Pasang Lhasa Rural Municipality Entrance Permit and a Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit. Heading back through the security checkpoints, Raju signed us out of the Park and we found ourselves once more back in Lukla.

Day 13 Lukla fly to Kathmandu

Although our hotel was only minutes from the airport it was another five a.m. start in order for us to catch our seven a.m. plane. Our fabulous porters, Prashant, Phurtenji and Bhakta insisted on carrying our bags even that final short distance and it was with great appreciation tinged with sadness that we said a final goodbye to them, Andrew and I promising to return in the autumn.

Spending two weeks together, we’d formed a tight knit bond with our whole group including our excellent porters and guide. While we were looking forward to getting back to Kathmandu for a little relaxation, the three porters still had a two day walk just to return to their own village. When they finally reach home, they’ll have been away from their families for at least sixteen days, a long time when you’ve a wife and young children waiting for you.

The Khumbu wasn’t ready to release us yet, shortly after arriving at the airport, low cloud soon prevented any more flights landing and just as we had started this adventure, we waited and waited. Raju had one more trick up his sleeve, although the planes were unable to get airborne, apparently it takes more than a little haze to prevent a helicopter from flying. 

After waiting several hours, there was suddenly urgency for us to grab our duffle bags and head over to the heliport on the far side of the airfield. Unsure exactly what was happening, we were bustled through a local market place, past seemingly stray dogs and roosters and into another terminal. There was a lot of noise, helicopters were constantly flying in and out and there were always several sets of rotors going, people were bustled on or off choppers, large 44 gallon fuel barrels were rolled off the empty passenger seats to land on tyres before being taken to storage. A hurried good bye to Raju and then we were airborne, the ground dropping immediately below us even though we’d barely gained elevation. 

Thanks Everest Base Camp trek it’s been a blast!

Need to Know

Where is Everest Base Camp Trek

Best Time to Visit Everest Base Camp

The best time to trek to Everest Base Camp is guided by the seasons, spring and autumn being the best season as the weather is neither too hot nor too cold.

Autumn (September, October, November) follows the monsoon season and the air is clear and mild.  

Spring (March, April, May) brings the new growth and the opportunity to view the flowering rhododendron, magnolia and cherry trees alongside the trail.

Time Required for the Everest Base Camp Trek

Using the standard trail itinerary, your Everest Base Camp Trek will take you eleven days to achieve. Heading up the trail, you’ll spend eight days trekking from Lukla to Everest Base Camp and then overnighting in Gorakshep. Included in these eight days are your two acclimatisation days being at Namche Bazaar at 3,440 metres and Dingboche being 4,410 metres.

It will then take you three days to return from Gorakshep to Lukla, the return trip is faster as you do not stop for acclimatisation days nor do you need to travel as slowly as on the way up. You’ll hike between five and seven hours each day, broken by a lunch break in one of the village Teahouses.

How Long is the Everest Base Camp Trek

The Everest Base Camp trek distance when measured from Lukla all the way to Base Camp and return is around one hundred and thirty kilometres however this excludes any distances walked on acclimatisation hikes in Namche Bazaar and Dingboche.

Refer to the Freewheeling Kiwi Daily Distance Chart for the kilometres and the Daily Itinerary Chart for the overnight elevations.

Total Ascent on the Everest Base Camp Trek 

Everest Base Camp Trek is an undulating walk. Including the two acclimatisation days, on the way to Everest Base Camp, we ascended 4,865 metres. Returning down to Lukla we still had 1,461 metres of climbing to do.

Permits for Everest Base Camp Trek

You will require two permits to Trek for Everest Base Camp

• Khumbu Rural Municipality Permit

• Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit. 

Essential Gear when on the Everest Base Camp Trek

Rain jacket and pants, hiking pants, hiking shirt, merino base layers, gloves, cap, beanie, socks, worn-in hiking footwear, down jacket, sunglasses. day bag, hiking poles, sleeping bag, water bottle and personal toiletries and medications.

For my comprehensive gear list, refer to the Freewheeling Kiwi Nepal Gear List Page.

Local Currency for Everest Base Camp Trek

Nepalese Rupees.

Difficulty Level of Everest Base Camp Trek

The Everest Base Camp Trek Difficulty level is generally considered to be of moderate to challenging difficulty. It demands good physical fitness due to the long days of walking and the significant altitude gain, reaching up to 5,364 meters at the Base Camp. The trek involves navigating varied terrain, including rough paths, rocky areas, and steep ascents and descents.

The risk of altitude sickness is a key concern, making proper acclimatisation essential. Trekkers typically spend 10-14 days on the trail, with daily trekking times ranging from 4 to 8 hours. Adequate preparation, including cardiovascular and strength training, along with appropriate gear for cold and unpredictable weather, is crucial for a successful trek.

What is the Cost of Everest Base Camp Trek

The Everest Base Camp Trek cost ranges from $1,499 to USD 1,600 per person, all-inclusive. This price typically covers permits, accommodations, meals, guide services, and transportation, ensuring a comprehensive trekking experience.

Join Me at Everest Base Camp

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