Milford Track has been thrilling hikers for over 150 years with its indescribably beautiful scenery, verdant rainforests, countless waterfalls, pristine rivers, the McKinnon Alpine Pass and sheer valleys carved out by ancient glaciers. It is the most famous of New Zealand’s ten Great Walks and understandably on many hikers’ bucket lists.

In this article, I share with you my Milford Track Essential Gear List, these are the items that I took with me when completing the track during a typically wet spring. I also provide some context around my choices. The article finishes with my reflections on which of my essential items failed, and what, with more experience and the benefit of hindsight, I’d now swap out for other options.

If you’re planning to hike in Fiordland, this is a must read.

Milford Track Location

Milford Track is located in Fiordland National Park, Fiordland which is situated in the South West corner of Southland in the South Island, New Zealand.

The closest towns are Te Anau, Queenstown or the Southland regional centre, Invercargill.

Where does Milford Track Start

Milford Track can only be walked in one direction which is south to north. The Milford Track entry trailhead is at Glade Wharf in Lake Te Anau and the exit trailhead is at Sandfly Point in Milford Sound.

It’s necessary to use water taxis at either end of the trail. When you start your adventure, the water taxi will collect you from the Te Anau Downs Wharf on the Te Anau Milford Road (State Highway 94). When you complete your hike, a water taxi will deliver you from Sandfly Point into Milford Sounds Village.

There is 84 kilometres, 1 hour 17 minutes drive between Milford Sounds Village and the Te Anau Downs Wharf.

Weather Conditions at Milford Track

Milford Track is a spring/summer/autumn hike to be undertaken during the Great Walks Season from late October to late April. 

Weather can and will change very rapidly no matter the season in the Fiordland National Park which experiences very high rainfall - up to nine metres (9,000 millimetres) a year. Compare this to the rest of New Zealand which receives between 600 and 1,600 millimetres throughout the year.   Odds are with rain on around two hundred days of the year, you’ll get wet for more than half of your four day walk.

Cold temperatures, snow, strong winds and heavy rain can occur at any time of year and it’s critical that you’re prepared for all conditions. 

The picture gallery below represents from left to right, my clothing choices for Day 1, Day 2, Day 3 and Day 4.

Milford Track Gear Challenge

Against this dramatic backdrop lies the challenge for a prospective Fiordland hiker as at first glance, it would appear that you’ll need to take with you your whole hiking wardrobe!

Milford Track Gear Compromise

Fortunately, the Milford Track is "only" a four day hike and as an Island our weather fronts tend to pass over the country within a few days. Keep a close eye on the weather forecasts leading up to your departure date and do pack for all eventualities. 

Make the final call on what gear you’ll take when you’re in Queenstown or Te Anau the night before you start. Many of the local accommodation providers cater for hikers and provide facilities for you to leave any extra luggage with them while you’re on trail. I find this very useful, enabling me to leave behind and then change into my town clothes once back out of the bush.

Document and Weigh Your Proposed Milford Gear

As you gather your gear for hiking the Milford Track, create a written list and document and weigh every single item. This process will force you to give more consideration to your choices, there may even be items that are multi functional. For example, a saucepan can be used for both heating your food and eating out of, saving the need to carry a plate.

Assess your Milford Track Needs versus Wants

It’s easy to think, this is only a few days hike, what difference will it make to add in "X" however when you’re struggling up to the 1,154 metre high McKinnon Pass with sleet in your face, "X" is suddenly going to be a whole lot less desirable. 

Work out your needs versus your wants and save the treats for your celebration meal once back in town. 

Pack and Repack your Milford Track Gear

Now you’ve collected all your gear, try getting it into your backpack. Does it fit? Is your backpack comfortable when fully loaded? What have you forgotten? Okay, now add the food and water that you’d overlooked. 

Refine your choices further and be sure to go for several hikes with your backpack fully loaded. Go out for a day, at least four hours. Your longest day on Milford Track is likely to be around six hours. Try this in different weather as your load will weigh more when wet.

Another consideration is that your pack will fit differently when you’re out wearing just a base layer compared to being out in your storm jacket with multiple layers underneath. There might not be much you can do about that but at least you’ll be mentally prepared.

While you’re at it, does your jacket even fit over multiple layers? Function before fashion.

Milford Track Hut Facilities

The Milford Track is a Great Walk and DOC describes the huts as having basic facilities. Compared to some other DOC huts I’ve stayed in, I find the Great Walk Huts positively palatial.

You’ll be sleeping in a communal bunk room and for you fast walkers, you’ll have the choice of either the top or bottom bunk. After the first night, you’ll have figured out who the snorer is and will know to avoid them for the next two nights.

There’s mattresses on the bunks and some hooks on both the inside and outside walls. As this is Fiordland, the windows will have fly screens on them though watch out for that one person who stands in the open doorway while they chat with their friends.

The large kitchen space will have plenty of benches for preparing food, gas cookers with gas, sinks, cold running water, a dish brush and cloth, maybe even some dishwashing detergent.

At night, the solar light may be on until nine. There will be enough tables and bench seats for forty hikers at a squeeze. There’s no cooking utensils. Outside there are picnic tables and seats.

Unisex toilets are located away from the other buildings or sleeping area and are a form of longdrop. That is, they’ve a holding tank below the drop and/or a septic tank. Near the toilets are hand basins with cold running water. There’s no showers.

During the Great Walk season, there will be a ranger in residence who is accommodated in a separate hut.

Aside from Day 1 which only takes an hour and a half, each day you’ll pass a shelter suitable for a rest and refreshment break and there’s toilets at these shelters. 

Essential Milford Track Gear List

I have compiled my Essential Milford Track Gear List using the following categories;

• main gear and sleeping system

• food and water

• clothing worn

• clothing packed (hiking)

• clothing packed (camp and sleeping)

• electronics

• safety

• toiletries

• hygiene

• first aid

• repairs

• personal items

These are the items that I used when walking the Milford Track or with more experience (such as walking the 3,000 kilometre Te Araroa), I would choose to take when I walk Milford Track again. 

We’ve all different experience, abilities and challenges and what may work for me, may not work for you. This Essential Milford Track Gear List is merely a guide, add to it or take off it as you see fit. 

Milford Track - Main Gear And Sleeping System

Two essential items that you need are your pack and sleeping bag which are each big in weight, expense and importance. If you’re purchasing these item new, take time in your selection and they will last you for many more exciting Fiordland adventures. If you’re borrowing or hiring these items, make sure that they are for your size.

For example, Andrew is 20 centimetres taller than me and as such, his sleeping bag needs to be larger and longer than mine. If I took an oversized sleeping bag, I’d have plenty of room to wriggle around in but I’d also be carrying way more weight than is necessary.

And vice versa, Andrew’s not going to be comfortable using my narrow, women specific sleeping bag. Not only would it be too small, it would be far too warm for him. I’m a cold sleeper and the temperature rating in my sleeping bag is -10 degrees.

A silk liner in your sleeping bag will protect your bag from unnecessary exposure to your unwashed hiker body and night clothes as well as add a degree or two more warmth. They’re very light and easy to chuck in the washing machine to freshen up.

Have I mentioned that it rains around two hundred days a year in Fiordland? This is the reason for all those glorious waterfalls that you’re coming to see. It’s also the reason you’ll take a decent pack cover and a pack liner. 

My preference is to simply use a large black bin bag as my pack liner and it works a treat without the weight of a "proper" liner. I’ll qualify that further to say that I do pack my clothing and sleeping bag in waterproof compression bags which then go into the bin liner. 

Outside of the Great Walks Season, the Department of Conservation uses helicopters to remove any avalanche prone bridges. By the time you’re walking, these bridges will all be back in place so you’ll not have to ford the rivers.

Even so, there’ll likely be a lot of water falling from the sky and keeping your kit dry is a key consideration. Changing into dry kit after a long wet day is bliss.

It’s not possible to camp on Milford Track which immediately removes the need to take a tent and sleeping mat however I do recommend you still take some form of emergency bivy. 

Milford Track - Main Gear And Sleeping System List

• Backpack 

• Backpack Rain Cover

• Big Black Bin Bag - pack liner

• Sleeping Bag

• Silk Liner

• Compression Bags

• Zip Lock Bags

• Trekking Poles

Milford Track - Food And Water System

One of the wee luxuries of the Great Walk Huts is that they have bench top gas burners and even gas available! In theory, you don’t need to carry a stove and gas canister though I still do for my emergency mid day cup of green tea and also if I want a warm lunch. 

Given it’s exposed location, the McKinnon Pass Shelter is fully enclosed and has gas burners though the other mid trail shelters are simply a roof on poles with a picnic table.

The weather was challenging on the day I crossed the McKinnon Pass and it was great to be able to briefly escape the weather and take shelter, enjoy a hot meal and cuppa before descending into the Arthur Valley.

If detouring to the stunning Sutherland Falls, you’ll pass by the Day Shelter which is also enclosed and a good place to take a break.

My preference is to use a water bladder as I find I sip water more often than if I have to stop and take my pack off to get out a water bottle. The huts use the nearby streams for their water supply and when on trail, there’s streams, tiny waterfalls or huge rivers everywhere meaning you don’t need to be overly concerned about carrying gallons of water.

I find taking between one and two litres is plenty though of course, if it’s a particularly hot day, take extra when going over McKinnon Pass.

I found when walking Te Araroa that the FarOut App was very useful for current updates on water conditions ahead, as in confirming if there’s still fresh water in a hut tank or that the stream hasn’t become stagnant or run dry. With resident rangers, the hut supply should be sorted.

Being a short walk, I didn’t take a plate and chose to eat directly from my saucepan or from the dehydrated food bag.

Milford Track - Food And Water System List

• Stove - Stove, Pot, Fuel Canister Foot

• Cotton mesh kitchen bag (to carry stove system)

• Lighter

• Folding Knife

• Spoon

• Collapsible cup with lid - 215ml

• 100 grams ISO fuel canister

• 2500 ml water bladder 

• Food Bag

• Cloth Wipes x1 (Chux)

• Rubbish Bag

Milford Track - Clothing (Worn) 

In order to keep the weight down, I keep it simple and wear the same thing every day. 

Layering is fundamental to your clothing strategy with variations dependent on the specific weather or environmental conditions you’re experiencing each day. 

Even with the best rain jacket and pants, if you’re in the rain for six hours, your clothes will become wet on the inside, whether from the rain finally soaking through your jacket’s waterproofing or from perspiration. It’s something I’m prepared for as I’ve yet to find the perfect solution to New Zealand’s persistent rain. 

On arrival at the hut, I change immediately to my night clothes and do my best to dry out my hiking clothes. This may involve hanging them outside either on a clothes line or hook, above the fire with every one else’s gear or draped off the side of my bunk. It’s possible to lay your clothing underneath your sleeping bag and during the night, your body heat will help to dry them.

If you’re bringing a black thermal base layer, you might like to add a name tag to it so that you can identify it amongst everyone else’s black thermal base layers crowded on the line above the fire. 

Unless there’s the threat of those naughty keas, boots are left outside the hut on the covered decks. With twenty people sharing the bunk room, they will smell pretty funky by morning so if you’re able to, be sure to leave one or two windows open for air. With that many people, the room will be warm.

On this walk, I wore my leather boots however if you have been following me for the last couple of years, you’ll know I no longer use them. I prefer now to wear trail runners which I thoroughly tested when walking the 3000 kilometre Te Araroa in all kinds of conditions and terrain. They would be perfectly adequate for walking Milford during the Great Walks Season. 

I also wore gaiters though in hindsight, they weren’t necessary. The only section of the track that was a little overcrowded with low growing foliage was the emergency bypass when coming off McKinnon Pass.

If you walk later in the season than me (end of October), you’ll likely walk the main track under the Jervois Glacier and through the Avalanche Zone. Even if you take the emergency track, the foliage is not a huge challenge and the trail doesn’t take long.

Because of the time of year and forecast, I didn’t bother taking shorts though in different conditions, I would take them in addition to the hiking pants.

Milford Track - Clothing (Worn) List

• Sports Bra

• Briefs

• Socks

• Top - Merino Base Long Sleeve

• Shirt

• Hiking pants

• Cap

• Wind Jersey

• Trail Shoes

• Identification Bracelet

Milford Track - Clothing Packed (Hiking) 

I keep these few items of clothes handy for when the weather changes.

Milford Track - Clothing Packed (Hiking) List

• Rain Jacket

• Rain Pants

• Beanie

• Gloves

Milford Track - Clothing Packed (Camp And Sleeping)

It’s a great feeling to arrive at the hut, have a wash and change from your hiking clothes to your night clothes. Follow that with a cup of tea and before long, you’ll start to feel human again. 

One of my luxuries is to take camp shoes so that I can slip out to the toilet during the night, or to the kitchen if it is separate like at Dumpling Hut without having to put on my hiking shoes.

As well, I use my camp shoes for exploring the nearby trails, looking for glow worms or swimming holes as we did at Clinton Hut.

Milford Track - Clothing Packed (Camp And Sleeping) List

• Merino Hooded Jacket or Puffer

• Camp shoes / slides

• T-shirt

• Leggings

• Socks

• Sports Bra

• Briefs

Milford Track - Essential Electronics

As a content creator by the time I account for my cameras and associated batteries, tripods and other equipment I do tend to take more electronics than other hikers.

Given the extremely wet environment, I still give preference to my GoPro Hero adventure camera which is waterproof including underwater filming and takes plenty of knocks.

While I’d love to take a larger camera with all the fancy lenses, I’m not prepared to carry the extra weight. I did notice a few other hikers with big cameras however they simply couldn’t use them in the wet.

As there’s nowhere to recharge electronics via mains electricity, I don’t take my wall charger plug with me, leaving it behind along with my "town clothes".

Milford Track - Essential Electronics List

• Camera with battery and spare battery, cables

• Camera Tripod

• Camera soft case bag

• Memory card and adapter

• Smart phone, cover, cables

• Headphones

• Power bank with solar panel and carabiner

• Headlamp plus cable

• Cables - 3 in 1

Milford Track - Safety Equipment and Considerations

New Zealand’s Great Walks are premier tracks that pass through diverse environments. The tracks are well formed and easy to follow with plenty of signs and way markers. In average conditions, you’re not likely stray off the track and get yourself lost. 

There’s a resident ranger at each of the Milford Track huts who has radio contact with the outside world as well as the rangers fore and aft. The rangers have a list of all the bookings and will be expecting you to arrive, ticking off each person once they appear. 

When crossing the McKinnon Pass and in less than average conditions, you may find yourself in high winds, low cloud, swirling mist, rain, sleet or snow and struggling to remain on your feet, let alone see the next trail marker. If the conditions are really bad, McKinnon Pass will be closed and you’ll remain at the Mintaro Hut until it’s safe to proceed.

As a solo hiker, I’m always quick to introduce myself to other hikers and if the forecast is particularly challenging, I’ll ask them if they mind if I tag along with them or their group for safety. Most times, it’ll be a group of us solo hikers who buddy up and walk together.

In doing this, not only do we look out for each other, but we form a tight bond through the course of the trip, and having faced adversity together, finish as great friends. This is particularly easy to do on the Milford Track as everyone is going the same way.

As night fell at Dumpling Hut, it was apparent that a party of four had still not arrived. On querying the hikers, the ranger confirmed that this group had last been seen at Sutherland Falls late in the day. The good news was, they’d made it over McKinnon Pass though the previous two days, they’d always been the last group in.

There was obvious concern and the ranger was seeking volunteers to go with him back up the track to find the group when they at last arrived, exhausted, wet and cold.

If something does go wrong, in the first instant, you will be relying on the ranger and your fellow hikers to know where you are. No matter how independent or introverted you are, It makes sense to talk to others.

Whatever else you remove from my list, don’t remove the emergency device and don’t rely on cell phone coverage as there’s none on Milford Track. I carry both a personal locator beacon (PLB) and a satellite communicator, if one fails, I’ve still the other. The PLB for the location accuracy and the satellite communicator both for location and as a tracker. 

If an accident happens, I want to give the Search and Rescue team every chance of finding me and I’ll hit the SOS button on every device in my possession. Having more than one alert also helps Search and Rescue know it’s not a false alarm. You can either buy or lease these devices and they’re worth their weight in gold.

While it’s a comfort hoping that Search and Rescue know where you are, if it’s night or the weather is bad, you’ll be relying on your own wits and equipment to get you through what will be a very long wait. 

Milford Track - Safety Equipment List

• GPS Satellite communicator and carabina

• GPS Personal Locator beacon and cover

• Smartphone - for the map Apps

• Topographic Map

• Whistle, lanyard

• Emergency survival blanket / bivy 

• Head torch

• Emergency food stash

• Big Black Bin Bag - takes up no space and with three holes in it, great for wearing.

Milford Track - Essential Toiletries

Milford Track is going to take you four days allowing you to curate your toiletries down to the bare essentials. The hut toilets have toilet paper but the trail toilets may not, take your own. If you take wet wipes, do not place them in the toilets, they’ll block the system which tends to make the rangers understandably frustrated. Any rubbish you create, you will carry out again with you.

There’s no showers and if you want to wash your hair, you’ll need to do it in a handbasin. Be aware that it’s not acceptable to use soap and detergents in our streams and waterways so even if it’s warm enough for a swim, leave the soap back at the hut.

Milford Track - Essential Toiletries List

• Toothbrush

• Toothpaste

• Comb/Brush

• Dental Floss

• Soap

• Insect repellent

• Deodorant

• Toilet paper

• Lip balm

• Sunscreen

• More Insect repellent (it’s Fiordland after all)

Milford Track - Ultimate Hygiene

The three P’s represent pees, poos and periods and no matter how consistent you are off trail, the stress of hiking, unfamiliar food and possibly untreated water may impact on your body in strange and unexpected ways. On Milford Track there are of course toilets at the huts and you’ll pass another one along each day’s trail.

Adhering to the Leave No Trace (LNT) principles, a little planning allows for those unexpected moments. When peeing and pooing outside, find a private spot well away from the trail and water sources. If pooing, first use your trowel to dig a cat hole then after you’ve done your business, fill it in again. 

If you use toilet paper, wet wipes and sanitary items, pack them out in your toilet rubbish bag. If you’re caught out needing to poo above the tree line and where there’s no organic matter to dig into, you’ll need to pack your poo out.

Seriously. Don’t leave it there for someone else to trip over. Alpine poos take upwards of a year to decompose and that gorgeous Kea will not be impressed by your behaviour. 

For Milford Track, don’t overthink this as there’s a toilet on McKinnon Pass and your situation would have to be dire for you not to be able to reach it before being overcome by the urge.

Milford Track - Ultimate Hygiene List

• Wee/pee rag, lanyard

• Leave No Trace Trowel

• Microfibre towel and bag

• Toilet Rubbish Bag

Milford Track - First Aid / Supplements / Medicine

A first aid kit is one of those items that you’ll always carry and hopefully not use aside from perhaps some blister plasters. 

Take advise from your doctor as to what medications or supplements you may need to take.

Milford Track - First Aid List

• Nail scissors

• Tweezers

• Clippers

• Needle / Safety Pin

• Bandage Crepe

• Tape

• Plasters

• Cleansing Wipe

Milford Track - Supplements / Medicine List

• Multi vitamin

• Ibuprofen 

• Paracetamol

• Antibiotics

Milford Track - Essential Repair Kit

When hiking, having items that have multiple uses are fantastic and my all time favourite, duct tape, sits firmly in that category. You’ll not need a full roll, just find that one kicking around the back of your kitchen junk drawer.

Use it to mend your water bladder valve, tape up your shoes, repair your backpack or to tape over hot spots before they become full blown blisters. It’s good stuff.

Milford Track - Essential Repair Kit List 

• Duct tape

• Needle / Safety pin

• Dental floss

Milford Track - Key Personal Items

I never take my wallet hiking, once on trail, there’s nowhere to spend cash or to use eftpos cards. If I’m storing a bag in town, I’ll actually leave my wallet at home and carry with me the bare minimum of cards, taking them on trail. I also use my phone’s PayWave function, further restricting the need for cards.

Milford Track - Key Personal Items List

• Money

• License (for identification purposes) 

• Credit / Debit Card

• Sunglasses

• Prescription glasses

• Glass case and cloth

• Department of Conservation Booking Confirmation (electronic). Note the prices have increased since my visit in 2022.

Milford Track - Comprehensive App List

• FarOut formerly GutHook 

• NZ Topo 50 South Island

• Strava

• Garmin Explore

• Met Service

Gear Failures

They say you pack your fears and my big one is being cold. Before starting Milford Track I was in Queenstown for a couple of days where I ended up buying another pair of thick gloves to supplement the lightweight ones I already had. 

Unfortunately, the new gloves despite their advertising are not waterproof and it wasn’t long before they were fairly useless. I’ve kept them for dry weather trails and as such, they don’t get many outings.

Future Substitutions

Since walking Milford Track plus many other trails including the 3,000 kilometre Te Araroa and the Everest Base Camp Trek, I’ve curated my essential gear list further. 

I’ve swapped out the heavy leather hiking boots for trail runners and I leave the gaiters behind. Aside from those two changes, my Milford Track Essential Gear List remains the same.

On Reflection

When choosing your gear list for hiking Milford Track, while hoping for the best, it’s prudent to plan for the worst. I’ll happily carry a personal locator beacon, emergency blanket and first aid kit and never use them.

Whether hiking Milford Track or one of New Zealand’s other Great Walks, this remains my "go-to" gear list, it’s my starting place to add to or subtract from as the occasion calls. 

What’s your favourite piece of hiking gear? Have you experienced gear failure like I did with my new gloves? Leave a comment below so that we will continue to learn from each other 😀

Where does Milford Track Start

Milford Track can only be walked in one direction which is south to north.

The Milford Track entry trailhead is at Glade Wharf in Lake Te Anau and the exit trailhead is at Sandfly Point in Milford Sound.

Getting to and from Milford Track

You’ll need to arrange for a boat transfer from Te Anau Downs to Glade Wharf. During the Great Walk Season, shuttles operate regularly from Te Anau and from Queenstown to Te Anau Downs. The cruise takes 1 hour and 15 minutes and is one of the highlights of the entire trip.

On reaching Sandfly Point, a short water taxi ride will transfer you to Milford Sounds (village/service centre) where you will be able to transfer to a shuttle to return to Te Anau and Queenstown.

My Milford Track Statistics

I started Milford Track on the opening day of the Great Walks Season which was 25th October finishing four days later on 28th October.

📅 Date: 25/10/20222 - 28/10/2022

☀️ Weather: Milford Early Summer, one day of sunshine, three of rain

🌲 Location: Milford Track, Fiordland National Park, Southland, New Zealand

⛺️ Accommodation: New Zealand Great Walk Huts.

📖  Bookings Required: I booked on opening day of the new Great Walks booking season, within minutes the entire season was sold out. If you miss out, watch the website for cancellations as there were several people who were on the trail with me who had managed to score a spot due to a cancellation.

Good to Know Distances

Hiking

• Milford Track 53.5km one way (four days, three nights)

Driving

• Milford Sound Village to Te Anau 117 km (1 hr 38 min)

• Milford Sound Village to Queenstown 287 km (3 hr 54 min)

• Milford Sound Village to Queenstown Airport 279 km (3 hr 32 min)

• Milford Sound Village to Invercargill 270km (3 hr 28 min)

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