I could hear the waterfall’s roar long before I could see it, hardly surprising given the weather conditions. The heavy rain had soaked me to the skin and waterfalls, too many to count, leapt impatiently off the mountain face. I’d made my way safely past many but ahead was the highest and largest, the formidable Earland Falls.

The sound increased to a frightening roar and rounding a corner, the raging spray and wind forced me to stop. I couldn’t see a thing and stood there, completely daunted by the tempest.

Somewhere in front a bridge crossed the face of the 174 metre falls. I weighed up the risks of locating it blindly, chancing that I’d not be washed off the narrow track and swept hundreds of metres to the valley far below. The odds weren’t good.

Routeburn Track Great Walk

Routeburn Track weaves through tussock meadows, beech forests, alpine gardens and past reflective tarns. Highlights include the turquoise coloured Routeburn, countless waterfalls, spectacular mountains and ancient glacier carved valleys.

Routeburn Falls

The Routeburn Falls are a few minutes walk beyond the Routeburn Falls Hut. As the forecast was deteriorating, I walked up to view them the same day I arrived at the Hut which meant I saw the Falls both before and after heavy rain. The views back to the Humboldt Range and across the Routeburn Flats are glorious.

Conical Hill Side Trip

From the Harris Saddle, there’s a short, steep climb up Conical Hill where you’ll enjoy superb views of the Hollyford Valley through to Lake McKerrow and if the weather is clear, all the way to Martin’s Bay and the Tasman Sea. The return side trip will take about one and a half to two hours though only attempt it in good weather.

Lake Harris

Approaching  Harris Saddle, the Routeburn Track sidles high along the bluffs above the jewel-like Lake Harris. The Saddle is the highest point of the track situated at 1,255 metres.

Lake Mackenzie 

The Lake Mackenzie Hut and Campsite are situated unsurprisingly on the shores of the enchanting Lake Mackenzie. Swimming is permitted in this sub-alpine lake and I imagine floating on your back while gazing up to the towering mountains from where you’ve just descended to be most enjoyable.

Earland Falls

The Earland Falls are about halfway between the Mackenzie Hut and Lake Howden and although they are magnificent when seen in all their glorious 174 metre glory, there are countless other waterfalls to also be enjoyed. 

When faced with the falls in full flood, I chose to take the emergency Earland Falls detour track which crosses below the main Earland Falls bridge. Having an alternative route enabled me to continue with my hike however with the volume of water created by the downpour, the detour was extremely challenging. I waited for other hikers to catch up and we continued together, providing support through the worst of the flooded areas.

Key Summit Side Trip

From the Routeburn / Key Summit junction, it’s about twenty to thirty minutes walk to reach Key Summit where you’ll enjoy stunning Fiordland views. Here you may meet day hikers who’ve come in from The Divide on the Milford Highway to complete the Key Summit Track as from the road it’s about a three hour return walk.

Best Time to Visit Routeburn Track

The best time to visit Routeburn Track is during the Great Walks season which is from the end of October until the end of April. It’s possible to walk the track outside of the Great Walks season however there’s fewer facilities.

How Long is Routeburn Track

The Routeburn Track is thirty three kilometres one way and can be walked in either direction. 

Routeburn Track North to South

Starting twenty five kilometres from Glenorchy at the Routeburn Shelter, you’ll pass the Routeburn Flats Hut and Campsite then ascend to the Routeburn Falls and Hut. Lake Harris comes next, then the track’s highpoint at Harris Saddle followed by the emergency Harris Shelter with the nearby Conical Hill turn-off. 

Continuing, you’ll cross the Hollyford Face then descend steeply down to Lake Mackenzie, Hut and Campsite. Finishing up, you’ll pass Earland Falls, Lake Howden and the Key Summit turn-off before reaching The Divide on the Milford Highway. 

Alternatively, you can join the Greenstone and Caples Track Loop near Lake Howden and return to the Greenstone Caples Trailhead at Elfin Bay near Glenorchy. This will add a further two or three days hiking to your Routeburn trip. 

Note that while the Routeburn Shelter Trailhead and Greenstone Caples Trailhead are both near Glenorchy, they are situated about 30 kilometres apart.

Routeburn Track Itinerary

The standard Routeburn Track Itinerary is three days and two nights.

Routeburn Track Day 1 

Routeburn Shelter and Trailhead Carpark to Routeburn Flats Hut and Campsite

• Time: 1 hr 30 min - 2 hr 30 min

• Distance: 7.5 km

Routeburn Track Day 1 Continued 

Routeburn Flats Hut and Campsite to Routeburn Falls Hut

• Time: 1 – 1 hr 30 min

• Distance: 2.3 km

Routeburn Track Day 2 

Routeburn Falls Hut to Mackenzie Hut

• Time: 4 hr 30 min - 6 hrs

• Distance: 11.3 km

Side Trip: Conical Hill

• Time: 1 hr 30 min - 2 hr return

Routeburn Track Day 3 

Mackenzie Hut to The Divide

• Time: 4 - 5 hr 30 min

• Distance: 12 km

Side Trip: Key Summit

• Time: 1 - hr 30 min return

Weather Conditions at Routeburn Track

Weather can and will change very rapidly no matter the season in the Fiordland National Park which experiences very high rainfall - up to nine metres (9000mm) a year. Cold temperatures, snow, strong winds and heavy rain can occur at any time of year and it’s critical that you’re prepared for all conditions.

The two photos above were taken a day apart. The first image is at Routeburn Flats, the second image is on the approach to Lake Harris.

Who can walk Routeburn Track

Routeburn Track is one of New Zealand’s Great Walks with a clearly defined trail and comparatively good facilities. It’s not recommended for children under the age of ten due to the exposed mountainous environment and adverse weather conditions.

There are steep drop offs along sections of the whole track particularly above Lake Harris and above the Hollyford Valley between the Harris Saddle and Lake Mackenzie. High winds would be an issue.

When there’s heavy rain, crossing the waterfalls is difficult and I experienced the path flooded in many places between Lake Mackenzie and Lake Howden. 

The image below is taken on the Earland Falls Flood Detour which involved hiking through flooded paths and scrambling up little waterfalls.

Avalanche Risk on Routeburn Track

The risk of avalanche can extend into December. When I walked the track in late October there were still many patches of snow through the alpine sections though not on the track itself.

Can You Walk Routeburn Track without a Guide

Routeburn Track may be walked independently of a guide and as a Great Walk, it is very well signposted with plenty of directional signs and markers. When you walk without a Guide, you will use the Department of Conservation facilities which are the ones referenced in my article. 

During the Great Walks Season, a ranger is stationed at each hut and they will check you in around the time you arrive. At night, the ranger gives a hut talk to alert you as to what’s coming, weather updates, the tracks history and condition, what to look out for and other useful information. They’ll also update the noticeboard early in the morning with the latest weather forecast. 

As the Routeburn can be walked in either direction, you’ll likely encounter new people in the huts and campsites at night. This can be a great way to share updates on the track ahead.

Routeburn Track Facilities

Routeburn Track is a New Zealand Great Walk and you will need to pre-book your trip online. 

The Track can be walked in either direction though the most popular is from north to south, starting at the Routeburn Track Shelter Trailhead Carpark then heading to Routeburn Flats.  Alternatively, you can start at The Divide on the Milford Highway and walk to Mackenzie Hut.

Most people take three days and two nights to walk the Routeburn Track.  There’s three huts; Routeburn Flats, Routeburn Falls and Mackenzie Huts. There are two campsites; Routeburn Flats and Mackenzie Campsites. To secure accommodation, huts and campsites all need to be booked well in advance of the Great Walk season.

The huts have basic facilities and the communal bunk rooms have bunks and mattresses. There are toilets, basic cooking facilities, solar-powered lighting and cold running water.

During the Great Walk season, there will be a ranger in residence. There are no cooking utensils or showers.

Routeburn Track Mobile and Emergency Communications

There’s no mobile phone coverage anywhere on the Routeburn Track. I recommend you take your emergency communication device and familiarise yourself with how to use it before heading onto the trail. You’ll need to arrange for your shuttle before leaving town as you’ll not be able to call them from the trail.

How Much does Routeburn Track Cost

Hut Fees for Routeburn Track vary depending on whether you are from New Zealand or are an international visitor, whether it is during the Great Walk season or outside of the Great Walk season and also, whether you are an adult or child.

During the Great Walks Season (mid November to late April)

New Zealand citizens and those ordinarily resident in New Zealand.

Hut Fees

• Adult (18+ years): $80 per person per, night

• Child (5 to 17 years): $40 per person, per night

Campsite Fees

• Adult (18+ years): $25 per person per, night

• Child (5 to 17 years): $12 per person, per night

International visitors

Hut Fees

• Adult (18+ years): $120 per person per, night

• Child (5 to 17 years): $60 per person, per night

Campsite Fees

• Adult (18+ years): $38 per person per, night

• Child (5 to 17 years): $19 per person, per night

Outside the Great Walks Season (May to Late October)

For all visitors:

• Adult (18+ years): $10 per person, per night

• Child (5 to 17 years): $5 per person, per night

Where is Routeburn Track

Curiously, Routeburn Track is in two national parks; Fiordland National Park, Southland and Mount Aspiring National Park, Otago. Fiordland is situated in the South West corner of Southland in the South Island, New Zealand. 

The closest towns are Glenorchy, Queenstown, Te Anau or the Southland regional centre, Invercargill.

Where does Routeburn Track Start

Routeburn Track is linear and can  be walked in either direction though the most popular way is to traverse from north to south.

The northern entry / exit trailhead is at the Routeburn Shelter 25km from Glenorchy.

The southern entry / exit trailhead is at The Divide Shelter on the Milford Highway, 84km north of Te Anau or 33km south of Milford Sound. 

The above map is my circuit of the Routeburn and Greenstone Tracks. If exiting the Routeburn, on Day 3, you would head to The Divide on the Milford Highway / State Highway 94. If continuing on the Greenstone Track, the Routeburn / Greenstone Junction is at Lake Howden.

Getting to and from Routeburn Track

The road distance between the Routeburn Shelter and The Divide is 253km.

Shuttle

Shuttles run regularly from Queenstown to both the Routeburn Shelter and The Divide. If finishing or starting at The Divide, Te Anau is the nearest town which also has shuttles. Book your exit shuttle before you are on trail as there’s no phone coverage anywhere on trail.

My Routeburn Track Statistics

I combined the Routeburn with the Greenstone Track, crossing between them at Lake Howden on Day 3.

📅 Date: 2/12/2021 - 6/12/21

☀️ Weather: Routeburn Early Summer. Day 1: Sunshine. Day 2: Heavy Rain. Day 3: Heavy Rain. Day 4: Rain, occasionally clear. Day 5: Clear and cold, snow on the tops

🌲 Location: Routeburn Track, Mount Aspiring National Park, Otago and Fiordland National Park, Southland. Greenstone Track, Greenstone Conservation Area, Otago. New Zealand

⛺️ Accommodation: New Zealand Great Walk Huts (Routeburn). Back Country Huts (Greenstone) 

📖  Bookings Required for the Routeburn Track: pre-book your trip online.

📖 Greenstone and Caples Track Huts: It is possible to pay in person for an extra $10 fee alternatively book online here

I booked well after the opening day for bookings and by then, there were no bunks available on the Routeburn. Instead, I booked campsites at Routeburn Flats and at Lake Mackenzie. There are no campsites at Routeburn Falls.

I took all my camping gear with me however once I was on trail, there were some cancellations as Lockdown was still in place in other parts of New Zealand, preventing travel. Instead of camping, I was able to secure a bunk at the Routeburn Falls and Mackenzie Huts.

Just as well, the rain was torrential and I’d have been miserable in my tent!

📖 Greenstone Caples Track: it’s possible to pay in person for an extra $10 fee alternatively book online here. There are plenty of spaces to camp at the Greenstone Track huts.

Milford Track Versus Kepler Track

Milford Track is located at the northern end of Lake Te Anau and Kepler Track is located at the southern end of Lake Te Anau, both being in Fiordland National Park and both being Great Walks. Given their close proximity it would be easy to assume that both tracks offer similar highlights but nothing could be further from the truth.

Milford Track’s highlights include ancient rainforests, McKinnon Pass, sheer granite mountains, cascading waterfalls and rivers, valleys carved out by glaciers, fresh swimming holes in the rivers, water taxis to and from the trail heads and the side trip to the incredible Sutherland Falls.

Kepler Track’s highlights include spectacular lowland beech and podocarp forest, walking along the shores of Lakes Te Anau and Manapouri with opportunity to swim, a side trip to the Mount Luxmore summit, stunning views across the south fiord of Lake Te Anau to the Murchison Mountains as you walk along a knife edge and the fragile wetlands near the Waiau River.

Yes, both tracks are beautiful and worthy of doing. I walked Milford Track and immediately after, Kepler Track, effectively completing the two tracks back to back.

During that season, I experienced challenging weather throughout my two walks with the Kepler Track on the point of being closed due to the dangerous near 80km wind gusts.

Kepler Track Versus Routeburn Track

Like Milford and Kepler Tracks mentioned above, the Routeburn Track is broadly speaking, in the same neighbourhood. Routeburn Track is in both Fiordland and Mount Aspiring National Parks and you drive past one of the Routeburn Trailheads (The Divide) on your way to Milford Sounds. 

Routeburn Track’s highlights include alpine gardens and meadows, beautiful alpine plants, spectacular vistas, views to the Darran Mountains as you cross the Hollyford face, the crystal clear Routeburn (river), the stunning Lake Harris and Lake McKenzie, the side trip to Conical Hill, Earland Falls and the silver beech forest. I circled back to Lake Wakatipu on the Greenstone Track and recommend that as a good circuit when walking the Routeburn.

As with Milford and Kepler, I walked Routeburn in very challenging conditions and due to the weather and lack of visibility, I was unable to complete the side quests, a great excuse to return!

I would happily walk each of these three tracks again as the experience is likely to be completely different given different weather conditions.

Fiordland Great Walks

This is the order that I’d walk the three Fiordland Great Walks:

1. Milford Track

2. Routeburn Track

3. Kepler Track

Yes, the indescribably beautiful Milford Track remains my favourite track in all of New Zealand. 

I would happily walk each of these three tracks again as the experience is likely to be completely different given different weather conditions.

Have you walked or are you planning to walk any of New Zealands Great Walks? Share in the comment box your experience on the trails or what you’re most looking forward to.

Good To Know Distances
Hiking

• Routeburn Track 32km (three days, two nights)

Driving

• Routeburn Shelter to Department of Conservation Queenstown Visitor Centre 71 km, 1 hr 16 minutes driving

• Routeburn Shelter to Queenstown Airport 78 km, 1 hr 28 minutes driving

• The Divide to Te Anau Fiordland iSite Visitor Information Centre 85 km, 1 hr 9 minutes driving

• The Divide to Queenstown Airport 246 km, 3 hrs driving

• The Divide to Queenstown 253 km, 3 hr 14 minutes driving

• Te Anau to Queenstown 172 km, 2 hrs

• Te Anau to Queenstown Airport 165 km, 2 hrs

• Te Anau to Invercargill 158 km, 2 hrs

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