What to expect when trekking to Everest Base Camp
Are you planning to trek to Everest Base Camp in Nepal?
Then get ready for an unforgettable experience.
The Khumbu Region is steeped in history and culture, has extraordinarily beautiful views, the friendliest people and a range of budgets to suit even the most cost conscious traveller.
In this blog I’ll share with you what it’s like alongside the trail to Everest Base Camp from the hilarious encounters with mule and yak trains to visiting iconic landmarks like the Hillary Suspension Bridge and Tengboche Monastery, and to observing life beside the trail all the while learning what it is to be a Sherpa.
Trekking to Everest Base Camp had been on my bucket list for several decades, it’s one of the world’s iconic hikes and one that many people, including non hikers are familiar with.
When Andrew and I shared that we were going to Nepal, everyone knew immediately where we were headed and what we’d be doing and they couldn’t wait to see the videos.
Nepal with it’s Himalayan Mountain Range, lays claim to eight of the ten highest peaks in the world and when trekking to Everest Base Camp, you’ll see some of them yourself including of course Mount Everest.
Standing alongside the Khumbu Glacier and gazing up at peaks that are well over eight thousand metres high is an extraordinary feeling, one that was for me, quite emotional.
Grab yourself a hot drink and settle in for the story.
Topics covered in this blog:
Mount Ama Dablam, Dingboche, Sagarmatha National Park
The night before our group left Kathmandu, we met our guide, Raju Simkhada, who had just that day returned from another trek. This was to be my first experience with a guided tour and I was very interested to see the difference it made compared to hiking independently of which I’ve completed thousands of kilometres carrying all my own gear and sorting the logistics as I went.
Raju briefed us on what was to come; the next day’s flight to Lukla where we’d meet our three porters, the start of the trail and going through the police checkpoints before entering the Sagarmatha National Park and the breathtaking mountain vistas that lay ahead of us.
Upstairs in our hotel room, Andrew and I packed and re packed all our gear into the provided duffle bags. We’d be leaving our own backpacks at the hotel with all the clothes and personal effects not needed for this trek and there was a lot of swapping back and forth till we felt confident we’d narrowed it down to the essentials.
Already the benefits of having a guide and porters were clear and I loved not having to think about the logistics, happy to hand over all responsibility to someone else so I could relax and focus on enjoying the beauty of the trail.
Setting the alarm for a very early start we went to bed with nervous anticipation about what the coming days would reveal.
Andrew, Himalayan Recreation Guide - Raju Simkhada and Sharon
Fresh from hiking Te Araroa, New Zealand’s three thousand kilometre trail, I was confident in my ability to complete the Everest Base Camp trek which is a comparatively short distance of around one hundred and thirty kilometres.
Our tour manager, Bishnu Thapa, had planned that we spread the trek over thirteen days and with porters carrying our duffle bags, I didn’t anticipate any fitness challenges though I was very mindful of the effect that the high altitude could potentially have.
Altitude sickness can impact anyone, no matter your fitness or prior high altitude experience. Before this trek, the highest altitude I’d reached was summiting Mount Kinabalu in Borneo which is a little under four thousand, one hundred metres whereas Everest Base Camp is nearly five thousand, four hundred metres above sea level.
In my usual way, I figured there was no point worrying, I’d either make it or I wouldn’t and with either result, I was determined to enjoy every minute of the experience.
We learnt that carrying as little weight as possible helps to combat the effects and Raju reminded us daily to limit what we carried in our day packs, while loading up our duffle bags for the porters to carry.
My tiny day pack, Phakding, Sagarmatha National Park, Everest Base Camp Trek
Lukla is the trail head and the flight there caps trekkers total bag weight as each passenger is permitted only fifteen kilograms in total, providing for around ten kilos in the duffle bag, and five in the day bag.
The weight limit is for safety purposes and if your bag is too heavy, it may be removed to come hopefully on a later flight.
Bag weight aside, flying to Lukla is a highlight of the trip, the views are stunning and landing at one of the world’s highest and most remote runways is something you’ll remember forever.
The porters each carry two hiker’s duffle bags plus their own bag so that’s likely to be more than twenty kilos. Having always carried my own backpack, handing my bag over to someone else to carry was an adjustment however as the air got thinner and the track steeper, I was very thankful that all I had was my day pack.
Bhakta Tamang, Himalayan Recreation Porter with duffle bags, Everest Base Camp
Our tour included all the essentials being return ground and air travel from Kathmandu to Lukla, accommodation in Kathmandu before and after the trek plus accommodation at the Tea Houses as we hiked the return journey from Lukla to Everest Base Camp.
In addition the tour included the necessary trekking permits, three standard meals a day, and the licensed guides and porters along with their costs such as wages, insurance, equipment, food and accommodation.
The few items that were not included in our tour package and that Andrew and I enjoyed during our trek included charging our power banks and wifi which needed to be purchased after Namche Bazaar and the bliss of a hot showers at the accommodation when available.
We also treated ourselves to chocolate cake at a couple of bakeries and a celebratory Mars Bar the day we reached Everest Base Camp.
Enjoying chocolate cake at a Namche Bazaar Bakery
As a digital story teller, I consider access to wifi an essential as when I’m on an adventure, I love posting daily videos so that you can see exactly what it’s like where I am and while I’m still there.
This is especially true for my Patrons who follow my personal tracker and I love being able to show the visuals immediately to match my tracker.
There were several days at the highest altitudes that I struggled to upload my quick one minute videos as wifi was limited though it seemed adequate for browsing, checking emails and even making the odd video call back home. If you had to endure those couple of glitchy videos, thanks for your patience, I did upload them again as soon as I was able and the series can be seen over on my YouTube Channel
Compared to more developed countries, Nepal is extremely budget friendly to travel in. It’s largely a cash society, their currency being the Nepal Rupee (NR), and away from the larger centres, cash is easiest though be prepared to be handling great bundles of it.
For example, you’ll need four hundred Nepalese Rupees for that celebratory Mars Bar. Seriously, having just been to Everest Base Camp the opportunity to eat chocolate at over five thousand metres altitude was worth every rupee!
Before leaving Kathmandu to begin the Everest Base Camp Trek, we used ATMs to withdraw cash and in addition visited Money Exchangers.
There’s countless ATM and Money Exchangers available in Thamel which is Kathmandu’s tourist hub. For those of you coming from New Zealand, don’t bring New Zealand Dollars as the Money Exchangers don’t accept it nor did the Banks that I visited.
Nepal Rupees
If you want to bring cash, bring United States, Australian, Euro and Sterling currencies. United States Dollars are accepted at many places but I found it easier to be dealing with rupees, it saved me from doing a three way conversion on the hop.
Debit and credit cards are accepted at a large number of businesses in Kathmandu such as hotels, restaurants and larger shopping centres that cater to tourists.
Once on the trail, you’ll need cash in small denominations and there’s no ATMs or Money Exchangers available after you leave Lukla.
As almost all supplies are carried in by porters or on the yak and mule trains to the hotels, restaurants, shops, schools and homes along the Everest Base Camp trail, the prices do become inflated the further you travel from Lukla.
I’d budgeted around twenty to twenty five New Zealand Dollars per day for personal extras and this averaged out well.
It was the bells that first caught my attention, the path was wide and paved with flagstones worn smooth over many years and by many thousands of footsteps. On either side were shops, their displays spilling out, trekking equipment, souvenir T-shirts, brightly coloured handcrafts and goods of all descriptions. Brightly coloured prayer flags were strung above us.
The first mule appeared suddenly from a narrow side alley, a collar of bells jingling around his neck as he lead the herd onto the main path through Lukla, the main path to Everest Base Camp.
There were eight mules, each with a load strapped to their back, I had stepped closer to the shops, out of their way as they’d work to do, whereas I was only a tourist. I felt the warmth of their bodies and breath as they pushed by. We’d left Lukla Airport just moments before and I was beside myself with excitement.
Mule train in Lukla, Everest Base Camp Trek
I’d learnt in Primary School that New Zealand’s Edmund Hillary and Nepal’s Tenzing Norgay were the first to summit Mount Everest in 1953 and with that knowledge came an early awareness of the Himalayan Range and the then Kingdom of Nepal. To an eight year old, it sounded magical and as a keen reader I looked for more stories.
At the time, books from the Rotorua Public Library helped to flesh out their story and deepen my understanding of the Sherpa culture. As I learnt more I came to appreciate the beauty of the Sagarmatha National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1976.
Leaving Lukla, we’d meandered along the Dudh Koshi River Valley, Raju’s words of “slowly, slowly”, along with the mule bells still ringing in our ears. Away from the villages, rhododendron trees bordered the path, now a mix of small stone and fine sand.
Far below, the Dudh Koshi River was an icy glacier blue, cascading over boulders though its busy chatter, from our position high on the hill, merely a murmur.
Unexpectedly, it was hot, very hot, the sun unforgiving on my long sleeved black T-shirt, puffer jackets long since removed, the air still and the heat trapped.
Curiously, our first night at Phakding was at a lower altitude than where we’d started in Lukla which is located at over two thousand, eight hundred metres. As we’d headed north and over the course of our walk, we’d actually descended more than two hundred metres.
While hiking to Everest Base Camp, I’d shared daily vlogs and it was my Mum who observed there weren’t enough superlatives to adequately describe the beauty of my surrounds.
You can watch the daily vlogs here and I’m sure you’ll appreciate her comment.
As Raju had instructed, we’d waited patiently while the mules crossed, there wasn’t much choice, fully loaded they took up the width of the Hillary Suspension Bridge.
The Dudh Koshi River raged in the rocky canyon well over a hundred metres below. Enormous boulders balanced ungainly on others, testimony to the River’s enormous strength.
Colourful Buddhist prayer flags whispered their messages of peace, compassion, strength and wisdom in the breeze, spreading goodwill and kindness into the surrounds. Beyond the forested valley the snow capped Himalayan mountains kept a watchful eye.
I’ve written about my own journey to Everest Base Camp from when the seed was sown back in 1990 to finally realising my dream and you can read about it here.
Hillary Suspension Bridge, Everest Base Camp Trek, Sagarmatha National Park
First to step onto the Hillary Bridge were the porters, bowed under the weight of their incredible loads. These weren’t the trekking porters, these were the ones who were carrying all the equipment, the Khumbu Valley’s version of a courier, only without the van.
Despite their huge loads, the porters were faster than us, stepping surefootedly around groups of hikers, yaks and mules and bounding agilely up the hill towards Namche Bazaar.
The Khumbu region was settled about six hundred years ago by Sherpas as they fled their homeland in eastern Tibet.
At lower altitudes, subsistence farming was developed, crops of potatoes, wheat and barley were established and some Sherpas farmed yaks which were ideally suited to the altitudes.
Khumbu is situated at the entry to a major trans-Himalayan trade route that historically linked Nepal, northern India and Tibet and trade remains a vital component of the Sherpas’ adaptation to the harsh environment they live in.
Since the 1970’s, traditional trading of goods and services has now been overtaken by a new source of income, tourism, with the Khumbu Sherpas embracing the new opportunities.
Sagarmatha National Park, which you’ll walk through on your approach to Mount Everest, is a scared landscape to the local Sherpas.
Sagarmatha means “Goddess of the Universe” and is how they reference the world’s tallest peak. The Tibetans, who border the northern side of Mount Everest, call it Chomolungma.
Despite the mountain already being named, in 1856 the British renamed it Everest after the first Surveyor General of India.
However we refer to the Mountain, its a place of magnificence to all.
A Sherpa farmer prepares a crop field, Deboche, Sagarmatha National Park
Caught in the early morning light, the fine dust swirled around the farmers and ancient walls built from stone surrounded the small paddock that they were preparing for spring crops. We’d seen garlic, onion and spinach growing lower down the valley where spring had already arrived.
At the base of the steeply forested hill behind the farmers was their small home, built from the same stone as the paddock walls and with a shingle roof, smoke drifted lazily around the gable end. Visible behind the home was a basic shelter, stacked high with firewood.
Half a dozen yaks waited patiently in the next paddock, as their herder got them loaded for the day’s work.
Two young kids went past with their school bags, chatting happily as they walked to the local Primary School.
Below the path, the land dropped steeply to the river gorge. I was on the lookout for flowering Rhododendrons and although we were early in the season, was pleased to see the occasional tree flowering in the sheltered gullies.
During the first two days of hiking to Everest Base Camp we passed through many villages including Nurning, Phakding and Monjo before arriving at Namche Bazaar. Tiny shops opened directly onto the path displaying bottled water, chips, fresh fruit, chocolate bars and souvenirs.
Shop keepers welcomed us warmly with calls of “Namaste” as we wandered past, drawing our attention to their products. Restaurants were plentiful and most offered local and western cuisine.
Namche Bazaar, Everest Base Camp Trek, Sagarmatha National Park
Tourism has grown rapidly in the last decade with the corresponding tourist services developing to provide everything a hiker or climber needs.
It’s estimated around 40,000 people trek to Everest Base Camp each year with most walking in either the spring or autumn seasons.
With tourism has come more money and the Khumbu region is the most affluent in Nepal. The homes, shops, restaurants and hotels that we walked past were tidy and well maintained.
As we continued to gain elevation beyond Namche Bazaar, the villages were situated further apart and we passed through Phunke Tenga, Tengboche, Pangboche, Dingboche, Dughla, Lobuche before eventually reaching the highest village, Gorakshep.
Raju had arranged for us to meet at the top of the hill. When hiking for hours, it was easy to spread out as we’d each stop to take photos, catch our breath and take in the extraordinary beauty.
We soon learnt that where our porters stopped to rest, we’d stop also as it was a sure sign there was a steep hill to follow!
Sitting astride the hilltop, the Tengboche Monastery, the largest gompa in the Khumbu region, has panoramic views of the Himalayan Mountains including Tawache, Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam and Thamserku.
Originally built in 1916, Tengboche Monastery has been twice destroyed and subsequently rebuilt. In 1934 it was destroyed by an earthquake and in 1989 by an electrical fire.
Six prayer wheels lead to the entrance gate where two majestic lions stood sentinel and visible behind the encircling walls were temples, dwellings, religious statues and stupa.
Hikers and climbers are encouraged to visit the Tengboche Monastery to receive blessings from the Monks that will serve to protect them in this volatile landscape.
I realised we’d returned to phone coverage when I heard Prashant talking animately to his wife, a smile tweaking at his mouth.
It was our twelfth day and I was feeling relaxed, enjoying the sun’s warmth once more as we descended towards Namche Bazaar. We had left the alpine zone and now on either side of the trail were small shrubs and bushes.
As our tour group had an an odd number, Prashant carried only one of the orange duffle bags, plus his own purple backpack.
His English was very good and we chatted about our families as we strolled down the hill. Phones were brought out and we proudly shared with each other pictures of our children. Prashant looked a similar age to my eldest son, Carlton, and his kids were very young.
When not working with trekkers, Prashant and his older brothers, Phurtenji and Bhakta took on the harder task of bearing supplies and equipment.
Phurtenji Tamang and Prashant Tamang, Trekking Porters, Gorakshep
I’d tried learning a few words and simple phrases of Nepalese and found the pleasure on the locals faces when I attempted to use the national language heartwarming. Fortunately they were very gracious and didn’t fall about laughing at my amateur pronunciation, well at least not within my sight.
Andrew and I found the local people to be incredibly kind, generous and patient with us.
We’d sat finishing our dinner in the hotel restaurant, sharing stories with our new friends of what we’d seen and experienced that day. Animated voices surrounded us as hikers heading up to Everest Base Camp listened in on the stories of those returning. It was cosy inside though beyond the steamed up windows, it was dark and cold.
Lighting in the hotels was often dim, many of them relying on solar power and so when the lights went out, we didn’t think anything of it. This was Namche Bazaar and unusually, in the corner of the restaurant was a giant flat screen TV with Cricket playing.
As the lights went out, from the TV’s sound system came the unmistakable strains of “Happy Birthday” to which we all joined in, looking around to spot who was celebrating.
From the kitchen the hotel manager appeared with a birthday cake, a candle burning fiercely on top to be presented to the excited birthday boy sitting across from our group.
Hip Hip Hooray, Hip Hip Hooray! Oops, that’s apparently a New Zealand tradition.
As the porters approached from behind, sometimes I’d hear a quiet whistle and knew to step aside and let them past but you’d not always realise immediately.
Many times on a narrow section of track, I’d see porters caught behind a group of hikers waiting patiently under their enormous loads and for an opportunity to pass.
On the return trip, we were caught behind two yak trains and as we hiked through the villages on the narrow paths, there seemed no way to get ahead.
By now, Raju’s “slowly slowly” had become our way and although we were descending to lower altitudes, we were happy at the yaks’ pace, perfectly at ease with the turn of events.
Hearing a commotion from above the trail I’d glanced up to see half a dozen porters racing each other on the hillside, dodging tree trunks and urging each other on, trying to get ahead of the yaks.
Now that they’d delivered their heavy loads, the porters could move through the rough terrain of the hillside very rapidly.
They weren’t successful and ended up between the two groups of yaks and their laughter at their failed attempt was infectious. There was certainly no road rage to be seen!
Yak, Thado Kashingaor, Sagarmatha National Park
The afternoon we returned to Lukla, I asked our porters if they would then be returning home. In the morning, we only has a hundred metres or so to walk from the hotel to the Lukla Airport and I was sure we’d manage to carry our duffle bags that far.
It was humbling to hear that for them, home was still another two days walk away, further down the Khumbu Valley.
I’ve enormous respect for all the porters, its an extremely tough life with no guarantees and they more than earn their money.
On our last morning, we met after breakfast at our Hotel, the three brothers happy at the prospect of the job being completed and no doubt thoughts of returning home to see their own families.
Prashant Tamang, Raju Simkhada, Phurtenji Tamang and Bhakta Tamang, Himalayan Recreation, Lukla, Nepal
Hiking to Everest Base Camp is a transformative experience, the rich blend of history, culture and beauty is unequalled. Nepal is a destination that you have to experience to fully appreciate. It may have taken me decades to get there, but it’s not going to take me decades to return.
The Khumbu Region and people have left a firm imprint on my heart and I’m thrilled to be returning to this extraordinarily beautiful place. Once again, I’ll be joining with Himalayan Recreation to host a group of like minded adventurers. If you’d like to join my group trip, find out how here.
If the date of my next trip doesn’t work, we can sort out an alternative date that aligns with your preferences. You can contact me directly here.
I’ve travelled solo many times and while there’s advantages to traveling alone or with a friend independently, the beauty of a group trip is you’ve an instant trail family of like minded people to share the experience with.
There’s no having to figure out the planning and logistics as your guide sorts all that for you and it’s easy to budget for in advance as everything is clearly itemised.
With a small group, while you’ve still the safety of numbers, you’ll be able to immerse yourself in the local culture and lifestyle as your guide will introduce you to experiences that are not available to individual travellers or large groups.
We’d started as strangers in Kathmandu and by the end of our trip, we’ve gazed in wonder at the beauty all around, looked out for and encouraged each other through the tough sections, shared pictures and stories of our families and pets and made life long friends.
Join with me as I return to Everest Base Camp here.
Have someone who you’d like to come with us?
Relive the daily vlogs of my most recent trip with your friends here, they’re bound to be inspired and ready to jump at the chance of joining you as you hike to Everest Base Camp.
Everest Base Camp Group Trip, April 2024, Lukla
We’re headed back to Nepal to join once again with Himalayan Recreation Treks to create lifetime memories. Find out how you can join us HERE
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