I could hear the waterfall’s roar long before I could see it, hardly surprising given the weather conditions. The heavy rain had soaked me to the skin and waterfalls, too many to count, leapt impatiently off the mountain face. I’d made my way safely past many but ahead was the highest and largest, the formidable Earland Falls.

Having woken at 5am to the freezing cold, I reflected once more on Raju’s briefing the night before. For the first time since leaving Lukla, Raju warned that this was going to be a hard day. According to Raju, we’d already had seven easy days though with the challenging climbs, high altitudes and reduced oxygen, easy was not the description any of us would have chosen. If Raju was telling us to prepare for a hard day, we’d better take him seriously.

For one fabulous week, Andrew and I wandered through the busy streets, back alleys, parks and lake district of Guangzhou stopping when we were hungry to sample the local food. Unable to speak or read a word of Chinese, we had some hilarious encounters trying to communicate with the restaurant staff who were unfailingly kind and patient with us. 

Guangzhou is where Cantonese cuisine originated and there is a veritable cornucopia of restaurants to sample Cantonese and other culinary delights.

I braced myself for the next gust, feet wide, knees bent, crouching over my hiking poles. I could see the track snaking along the ridge line with steep drop-offs on either side. We were well and truly above the tree line, if I went over, it was going to be a long way before I stopped falling.

There’d already been two hikers knocked off their feet by the wind, fortunately they’d not gone over the edge. Someone else’s pack cover took flight, a bright red sail disappearing into the grey fog.

Milford Track has been thrilling hikers for over 150 years with its indescribably beautiful scenery, verdant rainforests, countless waterfalls, pristine rivers, the McKinnon Alpine Pass and sheer valleys carved out by ancient glaciers.

It is the most famous of New Zealand’s ten Great Walks and understandably on many hikers bucket lists.

He took not the slightest notice of me as he continued on briskly down the path, completely intent on his own exploration of our surrounds. I noticed his big feet and short legs, seemingly out of proportion to his body, his whiskers and his small dark eyes peering shortsightedly into the ferns on either side of the trail. He was obviously looking for something and kept tap tap tapping from side to side.

We tore down to the beach, our new inflatable flutter boards bouncing cheerfully behind us. We had enough experience not to swim in the first part as the sand was mixed with small rocks and if you were rolled by the huge waves, you’d end up with gravel rash.

Onwards a little further and the sand was pristine with the waves rolling in predictable sets of seven. We ditched our towels above the tideline and raced each other into the surf, excited to be trying out our new boards.

Walking Te Araroa is the dream of many outdoor enthusiasts and since its inception in 2011, many thousands of people, including me, have achieved that dream.

The Freewheeling Kiwi Te Araroa A to Z Guide is written for hikers who dare to dream big and welcome the unknown. It is the most comprehensive Guide you’ll ever need containing a wealth of information, much of which you’ll not even have considered but all of which is vital for a successful Te Araroa walk. 

What is this divine feeling, is it happiness, is it wonder or is it perhaps spiritual? It remains intangible as I gaze upwards to the world’s highest peaks. While the feeling is indescribable, I sense a peacefulness on this most significant of days, having arrived at long last at Everest Base Camp and I was in complete awe of my surroundings. Welcome to my Everest Base Camp Trek Diary.

He stood barefoot, one hand holding a divine spear, the other resting gently at his waist. Dressed in ceremonial Hindu clothing with ornamental jewellery and a crown upon his head, his far reaching gaze swept beyond the crowds to the huge cosmopolitan city in the distance. The colossal golden statue of Lord Murugan towered forty three metres above us and even from the roadside, was clearly magnificent.

I just love this big vibrant melting pot of a city with it’s many different races and cultures, gleaming skyscrapers and colonial buildings. Being multicultural, the seemingly limitless choice of food is incredible and the best place to experience it is with street food. It’s an interesting city to explore on foot and a great way to walk off the inevitable over indulgence of fabulous food.

In this article I share with you the gear that we took when hiking the 3000km Te Araroa Trail along with the reasoning and context behind our decision making to better help you when making your own decisions while planning your walk of Te Araroa.

The article finishes with my reflections on what gear didn’t last the full distance, what was sent home, the substitutions and additions along the trail and what I’d change next time.

Hundreds of dove grey pigeons fluttered up, stirred into action by a uniformed man waving his arms and shooing at them only to settle the moment his back was turned. The pigeons resumed eating the grain being tossed to them by a tourist, these were the true city dwellers, capable of adaptation wherever they went. Cooing softly amongst themselves, they ignored the pilgrims prostrating themselves before the enormous white domed Boudhanath Stupa.

On the far riverbank several fires burned sending dirty smoke lazily up to mingle with the haze of Kathmandu. The river flowed languidly past, a dark, murky olive, certainly not the kind of river you’d choose to swim in. A faint smell of spices and something else, sour milk perhaps, reached us as we sat on the large concrete steps, captivated by the scene before us.

The atmosphere was hushed, “no photos, no photos, turn it off, please turn off your phone” politely repeated the curator to a tourist who appeared oblivious to the privileged position we found ourselves in.

Since stepping through the foyer, the hustle and bustle of the busy square quietened behind us. The small courtyard we were now in was surrounded on all four sides, the three storey, red brick walls decorated with intricate wooden carvings and the windows latticed.

He was lounging on the step about halfway up, distracted by an empty water bottle and took no notice of us as we stopped to catch our breath, one hundred and fifty steps completed, still more than two hundred to go.

We’d timed our early morning visit to follow the hundreds of Buddhist and Hindu pilgrims who tour the site as the sun rises each morning.

The Everest Base Camp Trek is the dream of any outdoor enthusiast and every year, thousands of people achieve that dream.

Major highlights include tracing in the steps of mountaineers to Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar, the extraordinarily beautiful views of the Himalayan mountains, immersing yourself in the local Sherpa culture and traversing through the UNESCO listed Sagarmatha National Park.

The Everest Base Camp trek introduces hikers to the Khumbu Region, steeped in history and culture and inhabited by some of the friendliest people you’ll ever have the privilege to meet.

Are you planning to trek to Everest Base Camp in Nepal? Then get ready for an unforgettable experience.

The Khumbu Region is steeped in history and culture, has extraordinarily beautiful views, the friendliest people and a range of budgets to suit even the most cost conscious traveller.

It was almost as if the Gods had flicked a switch, one moment was quiet and calm, surrounded by some of the highest mountains in the world, the huge glacier below us swathed in early morning sunshine, the next was charged with tension.