Guangzhou - Taste of China

For one fabulous week, Andrew and I wandered through the busy streets, back alleys, parks and lake district of Guangzhou stopping when we were hungry to sample the local food.

Unable to speak or read a word of Chinese, we had some hilarious encounters trying to communicate with the restaurant staff who were unfailingly kind and patient with us. 

Guangzhou is where Cantonese cuisine originated and there is a veritable cornucopia of restaurants to sample Cantonese and other culinary delights.

Guangzhou, Taste China

We tried local specialties including clay pot rice, noodles, rice paper rolls and wontons.

Street vendors tempted us further with their offerings of grilled meats, stir fried vegetables, fresh fruit and roasted chestnuts. We walked past markets with vast supplies of dried products both medicinal and edible, butchers with whole goats on the chopping block, ducks and beef hanging from hooks and green grocers offering an abundance of fresh fruit and vegetables.

Chinese Wontons

Nightfall came early and we found ourselves on a busy four lane arterial road lined either side with shops and restaurants squeezed in below towering high rises. Many eateries spilled out onto the crowded pavement, the tiny tables already crammed with commuters, stopping for dinner on their way home while barely a foot away numerous e-scooters whizzed amongst the throngs of pedestrians on the footpath. 

We looked curiously at menus displayed on lecterns near the entrances wondering what the Chinese script could possibly mean. Many restaurants had illustrations of their specialties on the walls, either way, we were no closer to knowing what the dishes contained. 

At one particularly busy restaurant, the staff rushed back and forth delivering sizzling hot meals to the diners, multiple plates crowded onto the tiny tables for them to share which they did, using their chopsticks with dexterity. It all smelt so good and by now, we were hungry. No one took any notice of us and we wondered where to sit, what to choose, let alone how to even order.

Guangzhou Chinese Wonton and Noodles

Moving on we found a quieter restaurant where the waitress beckoned us inside to a table. Menus were immediately produced which displayed a mix of Chinese script and a few pictures. Pointing to a picture, I mimed a query as to what it was. Our waitress replied in Chinese which to us meant nothing, she then wrote very carefully with pen and paper the name of the dish.

Looking at her perfectly formed Chinese writing, we were again at a loss and by now, our poor waitress was quite possibly having regrets for inviting two foreigners into her restaurant who were clearly imbeciles.

To save face and her time, we reverted to using the WeChat translation app and scanning the menu we quickly established that our waitress was recommending the wontons. Hurrah, this was something we recognised and were happy to have again.

Amid much laughter and great relief all round she headed back to the kitchen to place the order. Hearing the loud voices from the back, there was no need for translation to guess that our waitress was then sharing with the cook what a right couple of plonkers she had out the front.

Andrew tries the Guangzhou Chinese Wonton and Noodle Soup

The wontons were served on a noodle soup and the shared laughter continued as our ever patient waitress returned with some chilli sauce for us to try. Again, no translation was needed when she saw our reaction to the hot chilli and by the end of the meal and despite the language barrier between us, we parted as old friends having shared the enjoyment and appreciation of a good meal and many laughs at out own expense.

We had many laughs figuring out the Chinese menus

Guangzhou Claypot Rice

Reaching the top floor of the vast Metropolitan Plaza we gazed over the balcony into the depths of the atrium four storeys below. Hundreds of high end retail shops lined the various levels of the mall which was bright, clean and spacious.

With apartments above and the underground metro station below the restaurants were doing a brisk trade and some even had queues forming.

Guangzhou Metropolitan Plaza

We’d now increased our skills when it came to choosing where to eat and what to order, or to put it frankly, we were better at watching what other diners were doing and copying them.

In this modern setting, all the menus included an image of the meal and it was easy to look at the surrounding tables, see what looked good and then identify that item on the menu. 

The other patrons were young, very fashionably dressed and many had branded shopping bags beside them. 

On the off side of each table was a small drawer from where we chose our chopsticks, cutlery and serviettes. Near the kitchen was a selection of condiments, relishes and flavourings from which we could choose three to compliment our meal. 

Guangzhou Claypot Rice with beef, zucchini, bean sprouts, bok choy and mushrooms

The Claypot Rice arrived steaming hot with the meat and vegetables sizzling and cooking from the heat of the rice below. The scorching hot claypot containing the food was presented on a wooden board to prevent burning the table or diners and we transferred small quantities of our food from there into a smaller brass dish from which we ate. 

The vegetables which included zucchini, mushrooms, bok choy and bean sprouts were very crisp and fresh and the soy sauce which had been infused with ginger, garlic and shallots set the dish off perfectly. 

By the time we ate our way through the generous serving, the rice which at the top of the claypot had been permeated softly with the fat from the meat and fragrances from the vegetables was towards the bottom of the claypot irresistibly crispy. 

Sharon tries Guangzhou Claypot Rice with beef, zucchini, bean sprouts, mushroom, bok choy

Cantonese Rice Paper Rolls

Going through a phase, I’d once bought rice paper at the supermarket with the intention of making rice paper rolls. Following the directions on the packet, within moments I simply had a tangled sticky mess of rice paper and throwing that away, I returned the packet to the pantry where it remains to this day amongst other poorly chosen ingredients. 

If anyone ever asks what lurks back there, I’ll brush it off saying I’m a survivalist, in all likelihood they’ll think I’m either totally bonkers or exceptionally wise. 

Andrew enjoys the Guangzhou rice paper roll for breakfast

Clearly the restaurant we now found ourselves in for breakfast, focused on rice paper or rice noodle rolls. There was a selection of egg rice paper rolls and beef, shrimp or vegetable rice paper rolls. These weren’t the narrow rolls I was familiar with but rather a wide flat roll made from rice flour sheets.

Using WeChat to translate, I remained skeptical about the pork intestine noodle roll which apparently is a plain roll without filling and refers to the look of the roll, rather than any ill fated pig. 

Playing it safe, I ordered the egg roll and Andrew chose the beef, the key ingredients being added and folded in, before the roll is fully cooked. The rolls were served in a dish which was swimming in warm, sweet, soy sauce.

We found the roll to be lacking in flavour, not dissimilar to wheat or egg noodles, with the taste coming from the egg or beef fillings and combined with the copious serving of soy sauce. 

Guangzhou egg rice paper roll with soy sauce

For a breakfast meal it was okay though a little bland but then so is our favourite porridge and we happily eat that every day when we’re out hiking.

Not every meal has to be a gastronomic delight, sometimes it just needs to set you up for a big day’s walk and the rice paper rolls did that perfectly.

Guangzhou Street Vendors 

As dusk fell, the streets came alive with mobile vendors setting up their carts for the evening. Arriving by bike or small e-scooters with the food carts towed behind, the vendors were quick to get the cookers turned on and within moments, the air was filled with the spicy smells of barbecue meats, roasting chestnuts and corn on the cob. 

Other carts followed providing many alternatives that included shrimp dumplings, dim sum, wontons, noodles, vegetables, chicken feet and egg tarts. 

We mingled with local shoppers, office and construction workers who were drawn to the carts by the interesting aromas emanating from the cookers. It was a cash only system and as normal with street vendors, nothing was priced. 

Andrew enjoys a spicy sausage bought from a street vendor

Andrew enjoyed a type of sausage on a stick which he said was very good. Meanwhile, I spotted through the crowd what appeared to be some kind of meat chops grilling on another cooker and Andrew circled back to get some.

His face was a picture when he rejoined me to report that they weren’t chops, but in fact were duck heads complete with bills.

We would normally give everything a go however as we’d both been briefly hospitalised in Kathmandu a few days earlier with gastroenteritis and related issues, Andrew and I were still a little wary of what we were consuming. The chicken feet and duck heads will have to wait for our return trip to China.

Guangzhou street vendor roasts chestnuts

Before leaving on this trip, I asked our Freewheeling Kiwi community for their recommendations on what we should do while in Guangzhou.

I received many useful suggestions and particular thanks go to Trinity, a former Guangzhou resident as she’d kindly provided us with guidance that incorporated where to stay, eat and what to see. 

Trinity’s help was invaluable when we were in the planning stages of this trip. For a foreigner in a new country having that insider knowledge is priceless and formed the basis of our successful visit.

All the places we ate at were within walking distance of the Liwan Lakes and District and aside from the tempting availability of restaurants, cafes, bakeries and street vendors there’s many other sights to enjoy as you wander the streets.

Have you ever visited China or Guangzhou specifically?

Share in the comments below your favourite Cantonese food experience whether in China or somewhere else.

Planning a trip to Guangzhou

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