When Things Go Wrong
Umukarikari Track
Below me the swollen river raged down the valley, dirty grey water rushing, crashing and tumbling, rolling boulders, tugging trees from flooded banks, swirling and churning every which way.
Above, sky the same colour as the water closed in, the tops of the mountains remaining hidden in the murk. I knew what it was like up there, near horizontal rain driven by a malicious wind intent on tossing me off the narrow ridge. Behind, the perilous trail from where I’d descended was more a cascade than a track.
Through the gloom beyond the river stood the hut, a bastion of hope on this ill fated day which had begun with such optimism. Alas, there was no bridge nor a snowflakes chance that I could ford the torrent.
Waipakihi River with the Hut in the distance. Umukarikari Track, Kaimanawa
I was on day one of a three day, two night circular hike which wasn’t going to plan.
The first day I was to ascend Umukarikari to nearly 1600 metres and enjoy magnificent views across the volcanic plateau and Tongariro National Park with it’s snow capped volcanoes, Tongariro, Ruapehu and Ngauruhoe. Looking north I’d see the largest freshwater lake in Australasia, the beautiful Lake Taupo. To the south and east, there’d be the Kaimanawa Ranges, to me, a mystery yet to be explored.
Descending into the head of the Waipakihi valley the day was to finish with a hop, skip and jump across a small tributary. The nearby hut with its wide verandah enjoyed protected valley views over the river and back up to the same mountain range.
Having enjoyed a warm dry night in the hut, day two would see me following the valley downstream, walking along the Waipakihi River flats, fording the unbridged river numerous times before stopping to camp in a sheltered glade.
Lastly on day three, after a short sharp climb up to Urchin at 1400 metres the trail would eventually lead me back down through stunning beech forests and to the trailhead.
My Hiking Preparations
As I’d planned for one night in a hut and the second night in a tent, I was fully prepared for camping and looked forward to the weekend’s adventure. I’d studied the weather and mountain forecasts for the area to ensure there were no alerts or weather watches in place. It was the middle of summer however I was very conscious that New Zealand’s weather can and will change rapidly, particularly in the mountains.
Should that happen, I’d planned for all eventualities including back tracking, warm kit and as a matter of course, I’d take a first aid kit and my personal locator beacon. I studied recent trail reviews and checked photos of the route as part of my preparation.
Umukarikari Track, Kaimanawa
What Went Wrong
Climbing the mountain I’d not felt well, a result of the preceding stressful and long week at work. On reaching the tree line, I’d stopped to refuel with a sandwich and hot drink and to reconsider my plans. I checked again all the details and estimated times for the walk and after a short rest I felt stronger and decided that as I’d already gained the bulk of the elevation, travelling over the tops shouldn’t be too taxing.
I wasn’t concerned by the steady rain, if you’ve followed my videos, you’ll know that rain is typical and with a night in a hut I’d stay dry. Although I was going a little slower than the estimated times, being summer with its daylight savings and barring an accident, getting caught out by nightfall was not going to be an issue.
As I crossed the Umukarikari tops, four young deer hunters appeared out of the murk who were headed the same way. We chatted briefly about the conditions then as we separated, one casually wondered about the river crossing, mentioning there was no bridge.
An unbridged crossing was news to me and as it was the first time the hunters had gone to the hut, I pondered on this news. If they were correct, I assumed it wouldn’t be a problem as the track descriptions I’d relied on stated crossing the main river was not necessary to reach the hut. I was now well over half way and continued as planned, assuming even without a bridge, the tributary wouldn’t create an issue.
Scarcity
I’d planned this weekend carefully and driven for hours just to reach the trailhead. This was an area I’d wanted to explore for some time and it might well be ages before I’d have another opportunity.
Umukarikari Track, Kaimanawa
Commitment
Despite the niggling doubts about a potential unbridged river crossing I was committed to salvaging something of the day and thought it would still be fun to reach the hut and hang out for the night.
As I was still high on the mountain tops, I’d not yet seen the river or anything else for that matter. Walking along with my head down to keep the driving rain off my face, I’d already guessed that my second day’s plans of merrily criss crossing the river as it flowed down the valley was not going to happen. I accepted that and adapted my plans to returning the same way that I’d come in.
Umukarikari Track, Kaimanawa
Social Proof
Knowing the hunters were ahead of me gave a degree of comfort, after all, if those four, tall, fit, young, strong guys could ford the creek together, so could I. Regardless of the obvious differences in our physiques and numbers, what could possibly go wrong! I was glad they were ahead and hoped they’d light the fire.
I was wrong.
Umukarikari Track, Kaimanawa
Lesson Learnt
During the day, I’d made some assumptions
Commitment - I was focused on my goal of reaching the hut and didn’t want to turn back, despite the developing storm and potential for an unbridged river crossing.
Scarcity - Knowing that I might not have another opportunity to complete this hike, I suffered from FOMO or fear of missing out
Social Proof - I’d read plenty of recent reviews from other hikers who’d been there, done that describing the wonderful trail and stunning views. Plus the four hunters were ahead of me so it must be safe to continue.
Fortunately due to my experience and preparation, I was never in any real danger. It was clear on the approach to the river that it was going to be impossible to ford and I didn’t consider it for a nano second. Instead, I walked up the tributary for about half a kilometre trying to find somewhere safe to cross it.
Unhappily, that wee babbling brook was not playing nicely and for me was unfortunately "a bridge too far".
Being summer, while the weather was dismal, it wasn’t cold and even though I had a very damp night, hypothermia was not a risk. To increase my warmth, I’d cocooned myself in my sleeping blanket then wrapped my emergency blanket above and below. On waking the next day I was surprised to find how warm I was, despite my legs being quite damp.
As for the hunters, they’d crossed the tributary, but only just, a couple of them being washed off their feet and temporarily having their packs swept away. Nor were they successful at finding any deer who unlike us, knew when to stay deep in the bush, out of the rain.
Umukarikari Track, Kaimanawa
This is an example of taking sensible risk management and adapting your plans to the developing conditions. Although I firmly encourage everyone to stretch themselves beyond their comfort zone, it must always be done safely. There’s no harm in bailing out and coming back another day.
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Closest I came to dying I think in bush, but I’m 78 yrs old now. None of the mod tech that youngsters have now-a-days. I started at a tramping club and yes have been mislaid (lost) in Whirinaki Forest and eventually helicoptered out. We sure did see more of that wonderful area tho than most do!