My Journey to Everest Base Camp
It was almost as if the Gods had flicked a switch, one moment was quiet and calm, surrounded by some of the highest mountains in the world, the huge glacier below us swathed in early morning sunshine, the next was charged with tension.
Raju, our guide, first heard the distant thump and rumble, then instantly saw the cause, a crashing and tumbling of snow building up power as it accelerated down the mountain. He pointed to the avalanche beyond the glacier and our mood suddenly changed, no longer the carefree walkers we had been moments before, now with complete awareness of where we were, hiking at an altitude of over five thousand metres.
We stood transfixed as tons of snow, ice and rock crashed toward the glacier, one minute the mountain slope was pristine, the next it was moving, powdery snow billowing and spreading further and further. The rumble and crackle increased drowning all else, not that anyone was talking, we were transfixed by the spectacle taking place across the valley.
Avalanche near Everest Base Camp, Nepal
Raj leaned towards me “avalanche” he said in hushed tones, careful not to break the spell. I nodded slowly, my attention now turned anxiously to the mountains behind me where luckily, sunlight sparkled off rocky bluffs deprived of snow on this much lower range.
Slowly the sounds returned, the murmured conversations of the hikers as they relived what they’d witnessed and the click clack of their hiking poles as they set out again along the stony trail. The jingling of yak bells rolled through the valley as the yaks transported essential supplies to Everest Base Camp, continuing on their way as though nothing extraordinary had happened. The mules had stopped lower down, the limited oxygen making it too difficult for them to go on, I glanced again at the mountains above me and wondered if I too would be able to carry on.
Yaks transporting essential supplies to Everest Base Camp, Nepal
London, United Kingdom 1990
“Where are you going” I asked, surveying the pile of bags, clothes and equipment spread before me.
I was a recent arrival from Australia and had not lived at the squat long. Acutely aware of my lack of experience, I listened to my London flatmates conversations, doing my best to understand squatters rights, as well as the talk of ending Thatcherism, the Cold War and Poll Tax.
My United Kingdom Working Holiday Certificate
Golders Green is, as an Estate Agent would describe, a sought after neighbourhood and our four storey, period home had been quite magnificent in its day. Being unoccupied when my flatmates found it, the home made for an ideal squat. With bordered up windows, the inside was dark and vast with hardly any furniture and easily accommodated eight of us, half each from Australia and New Zealand, perhaps we were seeking safety in numbers. Bedrooms had been chosen and most were undergoing a renovation of sorts with fresh paint now covering the graffiti and ancient wall paper. Everyone worked different hours so there was always someone in occupation to deflect any take over bids for our home.
I was still a little in awe of Helen who’d lived in London a couple of years and appeared very worldly. She’d followed a more traditional route, training as a nurse before leaving New Zealand for her overseas experience whereas I haphazardly ping ponged from country to country with little more than a backpack and the relevant copy of Lonely Planet’s Guide Book.
“Trekking in Nepal” was Helen’s off hand reply and in that instant, the seed was planted.
Ping ponged from country to country
Mount Karioi, New Zealand 2020
As the misty rain continued to conceal any view, I focussed on the vegetation which was being sculptured by the prevailing westerly wind. Tortured trees dripped with moss and lichens and our clothing soon became wet through. An erratic fantail flitted past trying to catch the insects we disturbed, I admired its energy then remembered it didn’t have a choice. Mud squelched beneath our boots and the air was infused with its earthy smells.
Chains and ladders allowed us to haul ourselves further up the steep trail, it wasn’t a huge volcano but the rewards were to be spectacular with views across Raglan, Ocean Beach and the Tasman Sea. As a group, we’d now hiked up a number of mountains and jokes were once again made about the weather. Predictably, it rained and low cloud blocked the possibility of any view.
Punga Ferns along the trail
As the steep gradient eased, we chatted about our travel plans, most yearning for the sunshine of the Pacific Islands and Australia. I shared my thoughts and learned Terry was also making tentative plans to trek to Everest Base Camp. Flights and visas were soon arranged and the Everest Base Camp Tour dates were carefully chosen so that we’d reach Base Camp on my birthday, late in April 2020.
Everest Base Camp, Nepal 2024
Last time I looked, it was minus eighteen degrees celsius and although I was wearing two pairs of gloves the pain in my fingers was intense. Illogically, I repeatedly removed my right gloves to capture photos, I was not alone, despite the freezing cold and thin air, everyone was taking photos, the excitement contagious.
A queue formed as hikers took turns to scramble up onto a rock to have their photo taken, other individuals found their hiking groups and gathered together to be photographed in front of a brand new sign declaring “Everest Base Camp 5364 metres”. This capturing photos wasn’t a new thing, the delighted smiles of Edmund Hilary and Tenzing Norgay beamed down on us from the sign.
Everest Base Camp sign with Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. Delighted smiles all around
Suddenly I was in a place I’d never been but knew instinctively. I took in the world’s tallest peaks standing sentry above me and the depth of the sky’s blue reaching to infinity then turning inward, the excited chatter went silent as I travelled back more than three decades to recall the conversation in London.
Changtse Mountain, China and the Khumbu Glacier, at Everest Base Camp, Nepal
For many of us, life isn’t linear, more a series of zig zags as we adjust to changed plans and circumstances many of which are beyond our control. What’s that thing on your bucket list, that one that you refer to as “one day”?
I’m nothing special, I’m not a super fit athlete nor by any means rich, but somehow I’ve overcome the obstacles and after all this time, I’ve figured out a way to live my life by design.
Trekking in Nepal may not be your thing, but if it is, I’m going back soon and if you’d like to come along, you can find out more, HERE.
Everest Base Camp Group Trip, April 2024
Andrew, Himalayan Recreation Guide Raju Simkhada and Sharon, Everest Base Camp Trek
Buddhist Stupa, Everest Base Camp Trek, Nepal
We’re headed back to Nepal to join once again with Himalayan Recreation Treks to create lifetime memories. Find out how you can join us HERE
When I first stepped onto the trail towards Everest Base Camp, I promised myself I’d savour every moment. The quiet mornings, the endless horizon of peaks, the laughter over warm tea and even the wobbly breathless moments at altitude.
I filmed these daily vlogs as a way of remembering what it actually felt like to be there: the sound of yak bells echoing up the valley, prayer flags fluttering against a sky so sharp it didn’t seem real and the growing sense of “we’re really doing it”.