Durbar Square - Kathmandu Snapshots
Durbar Square, Kathmandu Snapshots
The Royal Kumari
The atmosphere was hushed, “no photos, no photos, turn it off, please turn off your phone” politely repeated the curator to a tourist who appeared oblivious to the privileged position we found ourselves in.
Since stepping through the foyer, the hustle and bustle of the busy square quietened behind us. The small courtyard we were now in was surrounded on all four sides, the three storey, red brick walls decorated with intricate wooden carvings and the windows latticed.
Our guide, Krishna reverently indicated where we were to look. Tourists mingled with the worshippers, quietly talking amongst themselves, waiting nervously, like me, not sure what to expect.
Our guide, Krishna Acharya, Himalayan Recreation and Trekking
Excitement rippled quietly through the waiting crowd and then she was there, gazing down expressionlessly from the third storey window. Attired in red and gold, her hair in a topknot and her aura, even at this distance, apparent. We were in the presence of a living goddess.
The Royal Kumari, Trishna Shakya, was installed in 2017, aged just five years old which makes her now about twelve. It’s believed that she is possessed by the Hindu goddess Durga and her power is regarded as being so strong that even this briefest of glimpses is thought to bring good fortune.
The mood in the courtyard was charged, we respectfully greeted the Kumari with “Namaste” and within moments, she was gone without a word. Andrew and I looked at each other, not quite sure what had happened but knew it was something special.
Nepal is a deeply spiritual country and the three story palace, Kumari Chouk, where we found ourselves, is located at the southern edge of the Kathmandu Durbar Square. The viewings of the Kumari are carefully choreographed twice a day, once in the morning and once in the afternoon.
Entrance to the Royal Kumari’s home
Since being installed at the palace, the Kumari never leaves aside for ceremonial occasions and at those times, is transported in her golden palanquin so that her holy feet don’t touch the ground. Her every moment is prescribed including schooling with private tutors, limited visits by her family and carefully selected playmates. At all times, she is expected to behave as befits a goddess.
In time, the goddess Durga will depart her body and take up residence in another young girl, and the present Kumari will return to the mortal world. It’s hard to imagine what the transition from living goddess to mere mortal could possibly be like for these young girls.
Kathmandu Durbar Square
Stepping back out of the relative calm of the Kumari’s Courtyard we stopped to take in the scene. Kathmandu Durbar Square is a treasure trove dating back many centuries and around us were monuments, temples, idols, art and magnificent architecture.
The Central Square is surrounded by palace complexes and the buildings are adorned with meticulously carved facades characteristic to Newar Architecture. Like the Kumari’s Palace, they have striking brick work and a unique style of wood carving that is rarely seen outside Nepal.
Construction of the palace complexes commenced in the third century with many influences, remodels or rebuilds since then including the more recent work since the major 2015 Earthquake.
UNESCO World Heritage Site
Kathmandu Durbar Square has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1979, recognising its historical and cultural significance.
Before unification, Nepal consisted of smaller, independent kingdoms and in Kathmandu Valley, there’s three such Durbar Squares being Kathmandu Durbar Square, Patan Durbar Square, and Bhaktapur Durbar Square, all of which are UNESCO sites.
The name Durbar Square is a generic name and refers to the plazas and areas opposite the old royal palaces.
Temples, Kathmandu Durbar Square
Religious Harmony in Nepal
Nepal is a land of immense spirituality and throughout the ages, there’s been a great deal of amalgamation of Hindu and Buddhist beliefs.
The two religions share many similarities in core beliefs, modes of worship and associated practices due to their common history of origin. The architecture of the Kathmandu Durbar Square reflects both Hinduism and Buddhism influences.
You’ll see Hindus worshipping at Buddhist Temples and Buddhists at Hindu Temples and it’s possible to see worshippers from both religions visiting the Royal Kumari to pray.
As I noted in the Swayambhunath Temple article, this acceptance of other is sadly lacking in much of society.
Details of Newar Architecture, Hanuman Dhoka Palace
Street Vendors in Durbar Square
As our guide Krishna lead us through the Square we were able to build on our very limited knowledge of what life must have been like here for the residents. One thing that’s not changed is the presence of the street vendors, though their wares may have adapted to appeal more to the current tourist traffic.
Walking along Maru Tole the street vendors’ tables were laden with traditional handicrafts, souvenirs and local snacks.
I was particularly taken with the brass meditation bowls. When tapped with the wooden striker, they have a beautiful clear tone and give off a healthy vibration that you can feel without actually touching them.
Further on we entered another bustling market area with beautiful art work, jewellery, textiles and handcrafted goods spilling out of the shops on display. Krishna introduced us to an artist who welcomed our group into his studio and there, showed us the exquisite Mandala paintings.
His explanation of the artwork brought the subjects alive for us, each piece unique and the larger ones taking many months to create.
Handcrafted souvenirs, street market, Kathmandu Durbar Square
Hanuman Dhoka Palace
Entering another chowk or courtyard, this time within the Hanuman Dhoka Palace Complex, we learnt from Krishna the palace was the royal Nepalese residence until the 19th century.
Construction of royal palaces at this site date back to the third century though nothing physical remains from that period. Extensions and repeated renovations over many hundreds of years and under the rule of different dynasties have created the magnificent showcase of craftsmanship that we see today.
Courtyard, Hanuman Dhoka Palace Complex. Kathmandu Durbar Square
The age and scale of the palace complex is difficult to absorb in one visit, apparently the palace used to house thirty five courtyards however the 1934 earthquake reduced it to the present ten. The complex now houses the Kathmandu Durbar Square Museum within it’s myriad rooms.
Work is continuing to repair the damage caused by the 2015 earthquake with scaffolding and support structures still in place however their presence and that of the tradespeople doesn’t reduce the experience in anyway.
Preserved as a national heritage site, I’d like to assume that whatever physical or political events happen in the coming centuries, this complex will continue to be built and rebuilt no matter what. I certainly hope so.
Hanuman Dhoka Palace Complex, Kathmandu Durbar Square
Kathmandu Valley Tour
Kathmandu Durbar Square is a two kilometre or a fifteen minute walk from Thamel, the vibrant tourist centre in the heart of Kathmandu.
The best time to visit is during spring (March to April) and autumn (October to November) when the weather is pleasant and the sky clear. On a fine day, you’ll be able to catch glimpses of the Himalayan Mountains, the stunning backdrop to Kathmandu.
On our guided Kathmandu Valley Tour we’ll introduce you to the mysterious charm of this ancient city, exploring hidden treasures, retracing ancient history, seeking out four UNESCO sites while immersing ourselves in the vibrant Nepalese culture.
The Tour includes a visit to the Swayambhunath (Monkey) Temple along with Durbar Square, a major hub of the city, the Pashupatinath Temple which is an important Hindu pilgrimage site and the Boudhanath Stupa, another site of historical and religious importance.
This day makes for an excellent introduction to Kathmandu and the Nepalese culture and religions. We’ve included it with many of our trekking tours however you can also take part in the city tour without joining the longer trekking tours.
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Related Vlog
Kathmandu Valley Tour 1 Minute Video
Planning a trip to Nepal
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