Milford Track - Great Walks Snapshot

He took not the slightest notice of me as he continued on briskly down the path, completely intent on his own exploration of our surrounds. I noticed his big feet and short legs, seemingly out of proportion to his body, his whiskers and his small dark eyes peering shortsightedly into the ferns on either side of the trail. He was obviously looking for something and kept tap tap tapping from side to side.

It was wet, very wet, the rain hadn’t stopped for days and the smells of the damp earth mixed organically with the verdant forest that crowded inwards above the track. The river rushed and tumbled it’s way towards the fiord, hundreds of waterfalls adding to its volume. Water dripped off every surface and trickled icily down the inside of my jacket.

I waited quietly, enthralled by the unexpected encounter with New Zealand’s national bird, the kiwi. Having satisfied himself that there was more to be found within the forest, the Fiordland tokoeka or brown kiwi scrambled up the bank and into the ferns. I walked softly past and for a brief moment he glanced my way as I thanked him simply for being there.

Brown Kiwi, Milford Track, Fiordland National Park. New Zealand Great Walks

Milford Track Great Walk

Milford Track was historically described as the finest walk in the world and it never fails to impress those lucky enough to visit this incredibly remote corner of New Zealand’s Fiordland National Park. 

Thanks to around nine metres of rain each year, Fiordland has stunning waterfalls, huge rivers, ancient rainforests and valleys carved out by the movement of ancient glaciers. It rains about two hundred days of the year or if you’re on the alpine tops, it’ll most likely be snow.

Clinton River, Milford Track, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand Great Walks

McKinnon Pass

I reached out to touch the memorial, erected to honour Quinton McKinnon who’d identified the Pass in 1888. Clouds swirled around, obscuring both the Clinton Canyon that I’d just climbed out of and the Arthur Valley that I was to shortly descend into. It was cold and exposed on McKinnon Pass, I’d already scrambled past small patches of snow above the tree line on my way up and my gloves, which were now soaked, were of no help. 

McKinnon Pass Memorial, Milford Track, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand Great Walks

A kea called, his raucous parrot’s screech echoing back, alerting me to the presence of the towering mountains. As I turned to continue the clouds momentarily parted, revealing the valley thousands of feet below and the sheer walls of the granite mountains reaching further towards the sky. Hard to discern where the grey of the granite finished and the grey of the sky took over.

The kea was answered by his mate and within seconds, the world disappeared once more though the awe inspiring panorama will be forever in my mind. 

McKinnon Pass, Milford Track, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand Great Walks

Sutherland Waterfall

Around the time of McKinnon’s efforts, Donald Sutherland had cut the track up the Arthur Valley from Piopiotahi Milford Sounds. Walking through the valley with the densest of rainforests, one can only imagine how difficult that must have been. The magnificent 580 metre Sutherland Falls memorialise his explorations as they shower down in three leaps from Lake Quill.

Standing at the base of the thundering falls the mist swirled every which way and water seeped into my boots from the saturated trail. The rocks were slippery with lichen and moss, an incredible lushness like I’d never seen before. Droplets hung from every leaf and trees clung precariously to cliffs that overhung the rock pool. The world was all shades of green and brown and grey.

With the constant rain, some waterfalls appeared magically, cascading hundreds of feet over cliffs only to dry up again when the rain ceased. When the wind blew, some didn’t even reach the bottom but evaporated into the ether. 

Milford Track Waterfalls, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand Great Walks

Māori Mythology

Milford Track finishes at Sandfly Point, aptly named for the tiny yet brazen bugs that patiently wait for any naive hikers who’ve left the tiniest bit of flesh exposed. 

As the Māori legend goes, the Goddess of Death, Hinenui-te-Po released the sandflies, or little devils, into Piopiotahi Milford Sound at Sandfly Point to keep people away from the area. Hinenui-te-Po was worried that people would like the spectacular fiord so much, they’d never leave.

Sandfly Point, Milford Track, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand Great Walks

Long before McKinnon and Sutherland’s explorations, it’s thought that Māori regularly made the trip to Piopiotahi Milford Sound from Te Anau to collect tangiwai pounamu, an ancient and unique form of greenstone found only in that area.

Best Time to Visit Milford Track

The best time to visit Milford Track is during the Great Walks season which is from the end of October until the end of April. 

It’s possible to walk the track outside of the Great Walks season however there’s fewer facilities. For example, the avalanche prone bridges across some major water courses are removed meaning you’ll need to ford the river. Having seen the depth and ferocity of the many rivers from the safety of the bridges, I can’t even imagine how you’d do that! The track is not an all weather track and it floods.

MacKay Falls, Milford Track, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand Great Walks

How Long is Milford Track

In total, Milford Track is 53.5 km long. This is from the Glade Wharf, Lake Te Anau Trailhead to the Sandfly Point, Milford Sounds Trailhead. You will need a water taxi to and from the Trailheads which will add to your overall journey.

The water taxi from Te Anau Downs to Glade Wharf takes 1 hour 15 minutes. The water taxi from Sandfly Point to Milford Sounds Village takes 10 minutes. Both are a highlight of the Milford Track Experience.

Te Anau Water Taxi, Milford Track, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand Great Walks

Milford Track Itinerary

The standard Milford Track Itinerary is four days and three nights.

Milford Track Day 1 – Glade Wharf to Clinton Hut

• Time: 1–1 hr 30 min

• Distance: 5 km

Milford Track Day 2 – Clinton Hut to Mintaro Hut

• Time: 6 hr

• Distance: 17.5 km

Milford Track Day 3 – Mintaro Hut to Dumpling Hut

• Time: 6–7 hr

• Distance: 13 km - this is the toughest day as it’s when you climb to the McKinnon Pass

Milford Track Day 4 – Dumpling Hut to Sandfly Point

• Time: 5 hr 30 min – 6 hr

• Distance: 18 km

Weather Conditions at Milford Track

Weather can and will change very rapidly no matter the season in the Fiordland National Park which experiences very high rainfall - up to nine metres (9000mm) a year. Cold temperatures, snow, strong winds and heavy rain can occur at any time of year and it’s critical that you’re prepared for all conditions.

Sharon Evans, McKinnon Pass, Milford Track, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand Great Walks

Avalanche Risk on Milford Track

The risk of avalanche can extend into December. When I walked the track in late October, it was necessary to take the emergency route when descending into Arthur Valley to avoid the avalanche path below Jervois Glacier. 

Emergency Detour, Milford Track, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand Great Walks

Who can walk Milford Track?

Although Milford Track is one of New Zealand’s Great Walks, it is not recommended for children under the age of ten due to the exposed mountainous environment and potential for adverse weather. 

Parts of Milford Track are unprotected, steep, slippery and muddy. On the third day, you’ll climb 500 metres to the McKinnon Pass and then descend steeply for 1000 metres to Dumpling Hut.

Sharon Evans, Clinton Canyon, Milford Track, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand Great Walks

Can You Walk Milford Track without a Guide

Milford Track may be walked independently of a guide and as a Great Walk, it is very well signposted with plenty of directional signs and markers. When you walk without a Guide, you will use the Department of Conservation facilities which are the ones referenced in my article. 

During the Great Walks Season, a ranger is stationed at each hut, they will check you in around the time you arrive. At night, the ranger gives a hut talk to alert you as to what’s coming, weather updates, the tracks history and condition, what to look out for and other useful information. They’ll also update the noticeboard early in the morning with the latest weather forecast. 

As Milford Track can only be walked one way, the people you start with are the people you’ll finish with and you’ll make many new friends through your shared experiences.

It is possible to walk Milford Track with a Guide; you’ll walk on the same track, have the same views and the same weather however you will use the Guiding companies accommodation which has different locations to the DOC Huts.

DOC Sign, Milford Track, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand Great Walks

Milford Track Facilities

Milford Track is a New Zealand Great Walk and you will need to pre-book your trip online. The Track can only be walked in one direction, from Lake Te Anau out to Milford Sound. The track takes four days and three nights and there’s three huts; Clinton, Mintaro and Dumpling Huts which all need to be booked well in advance of the Great Walk season. Camping is not permitted on Milford Track.

Mintaro Hut, Milford Track, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand Great Walks

The huts have basic facilities and the communal bunk rooms have bunks and mattresses. There are toilets, basic cooking facilities, solar-powered lighting and cold running water. During the Great Walk season, there will be a ranger in residence. There’s no cooking utensils or showers.

Aside from Day 1, each day you’ll pass a shelter suitable for a rest and refreshment break, there’s toilets at these shelters. 

Hinenui te Po, Milford Track, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand Great Walks

Milford Track Mobile and Emergency Communications

There’s no mobile phone coverage in much of Fiordland National Park including the Milford Track and Milford Sounds Village. I recommend you take your emergency communication device and familiarise yourself with how to use it before heading onto the trail.

How Much does Milford Track Cost

Hut Fees 

Hut Fees for Milford Track vary depending on whether you are from New Zealand or are an international tourist, whether it is during the Great Walk season or outside of the Great Walk season and also, whether you are an adult or child.

In the Great Walks Season (Late October to Late April)

New Zealand citizens and those ordinarily resident in new Zealand:

• Adult (18+ years): $92 per person per, night

• Child (5 to 17 years): $46 per person, per night

International visitors

• Adult (18+ years): $130 per person per, night

• Child (5 to 17 years): $65 per person, per night

Outside the Great Walks Season (May to Late October)

All visitors

• Adult (18+ years): $25 per person per, night

• Child (5 to 17 years): $12.50 per person, per night

Clinton Hut, Milford Track, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand Great Walks

Where is Milford Track

Milford Track is located in Fiordland National Park, Fiordland which is situated in the South West corner of Southland in the South Island, New Zealand. The closest towns are Te Anau, Queenstown or the Southland regional centre, Invercargill.

Te Anau Downs Sign, Milford Track, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand Great Walks

Where does Milford Track Start

Milford Track can only be walked in one direction which is south to north.

The Milford Track entry trailhead is at Glade Wharf in Lake Te Anau and the exit trailhead is at Sandfly Point in Milford Sound.

Getting to and from Milford Track

You’ll need to arrange for a boat transfer from Te Anau Downs to Glade Wharf. During the Great Walk Season, shuttles operate regularly from Te Anau and from Queenstown to Te Anau Downs. The cruise takes 1 hour and 15 minutes and is one of the highlights of the entire trip.

On reaching Sandfly Point, a short water taxi ride will transfer you to Milford Sounds (village/service centre) where you will be able to transfer to a shuttle to return to Te Anau and Queenstown.

Lake Te Anau, Milford Track, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand Great Walks

My Milford Track Statistics

I started Milford Track on the opening day of the Great Walks Season which was 25th October finishing four days later on 28th October.

📅 Date: 25/10/20222 - 28/10/2022

☀️ Weather: Milford Early Summer, one day of sunshine, three of rain

🌲 Location: Milford Track, Fiordland National Park, Southland, New Zealand

⛺️ Accommodation: New Zealand Great Walk Huts.

📖  Bookings Required: I booked on opening day of the new Great Walks booking season, within minutes the entire season was sold out. If you miss out, watch the website for cancellations as there were several people who were on the trail with me who had managed to score a spot due to a cancellation.

Milford Track Versus Kepler Track

Milford Track is located at the northern end of Lake Te Anau and Kepler Track is located at the southern end of Lake Te Anau, both being in Fiordland National Park and both being Great Walks. Given their close proximity it would be easy to assume that both tracks offer similar highlights but nothing could be further from the truth.

Milford Track’s highlights include ancient rainforests, McKinnon Pass, sheer granite mountains, cascading waterfalls and rivers, valleys carved out by glaciers, fresh swimming holes in the rivers, water taxis to and from the trail heads and the side trip to the incredible Sutherland Falls.

Kepler Track’s highlights include spectacular lowland beech and podocarp forest, walking along the shores of Lakes Te Anau and Manapouri with opportunity to swim, a side trip to the Mount Luxmore summit, stunning views across the south fiord of Lake Te Anau to the Murchison Mountains as you walk along a knife edge and the fragile wetlands near the Waiau River.

Yes, both tracks are beautiful and worthy of doing. I walked Milford Track and immediately after, Kepler Track, effectively completing the two tracks back to back. During that season, I experienced challenging weather throughout my two walks with the Kepler Track on the point of being closed due to the dangerous near 80km wind gusts.

Milford Track Versus Routeburn Track

Like Milford and Kepler Tracks mentioned above, the Routeburn Track is broadly speaking, in the same neighbourhood. Routeburn Track is in both Fiordland and Mount Aspiring National Parks and you drive past one of the Routeburn Trailheads (The Divide) on your way to Milford Sounds. 

Routeburn Track’s highlights include alpine gardens and meadows, beautiful alpine plants, spectacular vistas, views to the Darran Mountains as you cross the Hollyford face, the crystal clear Route Burn (river), the stunning Lake Harris and Lake McKenzie, the side trip to Conical Hill, Earland Falls and the silver beech forest. I circled back to Lake Wakatipu on the Greenstone Track and recommend that as a good circuit when walking the Routeburn.

As with Milford and Kepler, I walked Routeburn in very challenging conditions and due to the weather and lack of visibility, I was unable to complete the side quests, a great excuse to return!

I would happily walk each of these three tracks again as the experience is likely to be completely different given different weather conditions.

Fiordland Great Walks

This is the order that I’d walk the three Fiordland Great Walks:

1. Milford Track

2. Routeburn Track

3. Kepler Track

Yes, the indescribably beautiful Milford Track remains my favourite track in all of New Zealand. 

Have you walked or are you planning to walk any of New Zealands Great Walks? Share in the comment box your experience on the trails or what you’re most looking forward to.

Good to Know Distances

Hiking

• Milford Track 53.5km one way (four days, three nights)

Driving

• Milford Sound Village to Te Anau 117 km (1 hr 38 min)

• Milford Sound Village to Queenstown 287 km (3 hr 54 min)

• Milford Sound Village to Queenstown Airport 279 km (3 hr 32 min)

• Milford Sound Village to Invercargill 270km (3 hr 28 min)

Planning a trip to New Zealand

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