Tongariro Alpine Crossing
Tongariro Alpine Crossing - Great Walks Snapshot
Having just crested the Tongariro Alpine Crossing alongside the impressive Red Crater I gazed down the precipitous volcanic scree slope which sidled past the breathtaking Emerald Lakes. We’d planned to stop alongside the lakes and the only thing between me and my sandwich was this hair raising descent.
I weighed up the options and was attracted most by the plan to skid down on my butt so that I’d not tumble head over heels off the narrow spur. At this height, this felt a very real possibility!
My feet were already hurting in their new hiking boots and by day’s end, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing would claim three of my toenails.
Tongariro Alpine Crossing - Great Walk
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing takes you across a volcanic alpine landscape with many dramatic contrasts. Highlights include spectacular views of the three volcanoes; Tongariro, Ngauruhoe and Ruapehu and on an exceptionally clear day, even Taranaki way in the distance.
There’s vivid crater lakes that in the sunshine are a brilliant emerald green or turquoise blue, steaming volcanic vents, ancient lava flows and exotic alpine vegetation.
Tongariro National Park
Tongariro National Park was established in 1894, a first for New Zealand and only the fourth National Park in the world. It was established to ensure the continued protection of Tongariro.
The mountains at the heart of the park have cultural and spiritual significance to Ngāti Tuwharetoa, symbolising the spiritual links between this community and it’s environment.
Dual World Heritage Site
The Tongariro National Park is a dual world heritage site which recognises both the natural environment and the cultural and spiritual significance this land has to local Maori.
Repeat Visits
The second time I stood on top of the scree slope, I was ready for whatever it had to offer, taking it slowly as I was carrying a loaded multi day pack. By the third time and again with just a day pack, I laughed aloud before letting out an excited "whoop" and running down the scree with each giant step sinking me deeper into the loose stone.
By my fourth visit I was ready for a change and approached from the opposite direction. There was no laughing this time as it was raining and bitterly cold. I was carrying a full thru hiker’s pack as my reverse Tongariro Alpine Crossing was being completed as part of walking Te Araroa, New Zealand’s 3,000 kilometre thru hike.
Climbing up the icy scree slope with a weighted pack was extremely demanding and the catchphrase of taking two steps forward and one step back was more than true.
One Day Walk
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is classified as a "Great Walk" however unlike the other Great Walk’s, it is completed in one day. Although a day walk, it’s not to be underestimated as it traverses a formidable landscape.
Mangatepōpō Valley
The Mangatepōpō Valley is a lovely warm up to the more challenging ascents ahead and the well-formed boardwalk helps to ease you across the rocky terrain.
Mangatepōpō Valley, Tongariro Alpine Crossing, New Zealand Great Walks
Mangatepōpō Hut
Shortly after commencing the walk from the Mangatepōpō Road end the track passes a short side track to the Mangatepōpō Hut and Campsite. The location of this hut makes it ideal as an entry level hut being only twenty five minutes from the road as well as providing the option of spreading the Alpine Crossing over two days.
Bookings are required and as the Hut is on both the Tongariro Northern Circuit and on Te Araroa expect to book well in advance of your intended stay.
Soda Springs Walk Side Trip
Towards the top of the Mangatepōpō Valley are the Soda Springs which can be glimpsed from the main trail. If there’s been plenty of rain, it’s worth the wander over to them for a closer look particularly in summer when the springs create a small oasis of lush yellow mountain buttercups and white foxgloves.
Soda Springs, Mangatepōpō Valley, Tongariro Alpine Crossing, New Zealand Great Walks
South Crater
Leaving behind the Mangatepōpō Valley floor, the track then ascends steadily up a staircase to the South Crater. The South Crater is flat and the trail goes directly through the centre where you’ll be surrounded by surreal views.
To the right on the far side is a small lake and like the rest of the trail, it’s important to note that touching the water is prohibited. Take your time crossing the South Crater as there’s another steep climb on the far side.
South Crater, Tongariro Alpine Crossing, New Zealand Great Walks
Red Crater
Around half way up the ascent between the South Crater and the highest point of the track is a viewing point where you’ll get your first glimpse down into the Red Crater.
Unlike the South Crater, the Red Crater has been blown out of the mountainside and is incredibly dramatic in both it’s red colour and appearance. Peering into its blood red cracks and crannies, it’s not difficult to imagine how the mountainside blew out.
Tongariro Alpine Crossing High Point
Circling carefully around one side of the Red Crater, the track continues to climb before reaching the highest point of the Crossing at 1,886 metres above sea level (MASL)
The views from here sweep back across the South Crater, up to Ngauruhoe and Tongariro and in the opposite direction down to the Ngā Rotopounamu - Emerald Lakes, the Blue Lake - Te Wai Whakaata o Te Rangihīroa and over to the Rangipo Desert.
High point of Tongariro Alpine Crossing, New Zealand Great Walks
Ngā Rotopounamu - Emerald Lakes
The steep descent on volcanic rock scree brings you alongside the vivid Ngā Rotopounamu - Emerald Lakes which make a great place to have lunch before continuing.
Emerald Lakes, Tongariro Alpine Crossing, New Zealand Great Walks
Te Wai Whakaata o Te Rangihīroa - Blue Lake
Leaving behind the scree slope you’ll then cross Central Crater before a short climb up to Te Wai Whakaata o Te Rangihīroa - the Blue Lake which is much larger than the Ngā Rotopounamu - Emerald Lakes.
The Blue Lake is a quieter option for a lunch stop and is the half way point of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. From here there’s another ten kilometres and a thousand metre descent down the mountain before you can take your boots off and relax.
Blue Lake, Tongariro Alpine Crossing, New Zealand Great Walks
Zig Zag Descent
As you sidle around the northern slopes of Tongariro you’ll enjoy magnificent views over Lake Rotoaira and Lake Taupō before starting the descent through lush forest.
The observant will pick out where the shuttle buses are waiting below however don’t underestimate how far there is still to go. The interminable zig zag route down takes a long time and is a challenge that includes many steps.
Lake Rotoaira and Lake Taupō, Tongariro Alpine Crossing, New Zealand Great Walks
Best Time to Visit Tongariro Alpine Crossing
The best time to visit Tongariro Alpine Crossing is from November to late April. From May to October, snow and ice mean alpine skills and experience are essential. Use a guide or choose another track.
How Long is Tongariro Alpine Crossing
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is twenty kilometres one way and can be walked in either direction though the shuttle drop off and pick ups support a south to north direction beginning at the Mangatepōpō Road end and finishing at the Ketetahi Road end.
Tongariro Track Facilities
Parking: There are carparks at the Mangatepōpō and Ketetahi Road ends with strictly four hour parking limits.
Toilets: There are nine toilets on the Tongariro Alpine Track which includes one at each road end and one at Mangatepōpō Hut. Bring your own toilet paper.
Shelter: There is a shelter at the Mangatepōpō Road end and at the Ketetahi Road end. The Mangatepōpō Hut also provides shelter and is a short detour from the main trail.
From the time you leave or go past the Mangatepōpō Hut until you reach the trail head at Ketetahi Road there are no shelters nor will you reach the Ketetahi bush line until you’ve completed over 16 kilometres from the start.
Ketetahi Road Carpark, Tongariro Alpine Crossing, New Zealand Great Walks
Tongariro Alpine Crossing Itinerary
The standard Tongariro Alpine Crossing Itinerary is for a one day walk; during the summer season it will take 7 to 8 hours and during winter, 9 hours.
Mangatepōpō Road end
(start)
Elevation: 1,120 MASL
Soda Springs
4+ kilometres
Elevation: 1,400 MASL
Red Crater
8+ kilometres
Elevation: 1868 MASL
Blue Lake
10+ kilometres
Elevation 1,725 MASL
Ketetahi Bushline
16+ kilometres
Elevation 1,040 MASL
Ketetahi Road end
(finish)
19.4 kilometres
Elevation 750 MASL
Weather Conditions on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing
Weather can and will change very rapidly no matter the season in the Tongariro National Park. Cold temperatures, snow and strong winds can occur at any time of year and it’s critical that you’re prepared for all conditions.
There’s no shelter for the majority of the trail so even if the weather is good, it’s important that you go prepared for all day exposure to strong sunshine, taking with you plenty of water, sunscreen and a hat. There is no fresh water available on the track.
Central Crater, Tongariro Alpine Crossing, New Zealand Great Walks
Who can walk Tongariro Alpine Crossing
Tongariro Alpine Crossing is one of New Zealand’s Great Walks though its not to be underestimated as most of the track is open, difficult, exposed and on uneven surfaces.
It’s not recommended for children under the age of ten. The track traverses exposed mountainous landscapes and often with adverse weather conditions, yes, even in summer.
Alpine Weather on Tongariro Alpine Crossing
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing passes through an alpine environment with changeable weather conditions at all times of the year. It is common to experience very cold temperatures, strong wind, heavy rainfall and poor visibility in summer. Snow can fall at any time of the year.
If the wind gusts are strong, the Crossing will be closed as it becomes too dangerous particularly alongside the Red Crater.
Reverse Ascent, Tongariro Alpine Crossing, New Zealand Great Walks
Volcanic Risk on Tongariro Alpine Crossing
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is located in a volcanic hazard zone and even when the track is open, volcanic risk is present. Volcanic monitoring systems monitor activity but won’t ensure your personal safety. If you’re uncomfortable with the risk, choose a different track.
Can You Walk Tongariro Alpine Crossing without a Guide
Tongariro Alpine Crossing may be walked independently of a guide and as a Great Walk, it is very well signposted with plenty of directional signs and markers. When you walk without a Guide, you will use the Department of Conservation facilities which are the ones referenced in my article.
During the Great Walks Season, a ranger is stationed at each hut and they will check you in around the time you arrive. At night, the ranger gives a hut talk to alert you as to what’s coming, weather updates, the tracks history and condition, what to look out for and other useful information. They’ll also update the noticeboard early in the morning with the latest weather forecast.
If you are traversing during the winter months, it’s recommended that you engage the services of a guide.
Lake Rotoaira, Tongariro Alpine Crossing, New Zealand Great Walks
Tongariro Alpine Crossing Facilities
Tongariro Alpine Crossing is a New Zealand Great Walk and it is recommended that all users of the Tongariro National park book their intentions with DOC here. There is no cost to book and you can use the online service.
Alternatively, you can book at any visitor centre, local information centre or iSite. Your walking guide or shuttle service may also provide the booking service for you.
The Track can be walked in either direction though the most popular is from south to north starting at the Mangatepōpō Road end and walking north to the Ketetahi Road end.
The majority of Te Araroa walkers go from Cape Reinga to Bluff (southbound) and they will be headed in the opposite direction to the majority of walkers on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing.
There’s one hut along the Tongariro Alpine Crossing which you’ll pass within half an hour of starting at the Mangatepōpō Road end. Alongside the hut is also a campsite.
To secure accommodation at the Mangatepōpō Hut or campsite, you’ll need to book well in advance as being a Great Walk Hut it’s on the Tongariro Northern Circuit and also on Te Araroa.
The hut has basic facilities and the two communal bunk rooms have bunks and mattresses. There are toilets, basic cooking facilities, solar-powered lighting and cold running water. During the Great Walk season, there will be a ranger in residence. There’s no cooking utensils or showers.
The campsite is immediately outside of the hut and you share the toilets. Campers are discouraged from using the hut facilities other than the outside toilet and water taps.
Mangatepōpō Hut Sign, Tongariro Alpine Crossing, New Zealand Great Walks
Tongariro Alpine Crossing Mobile and Emergency Communications
There’s limited mobile phone coverage on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. I recommend you take your emergency communication device and familiarise yourself with how to use it before heading onto the trail.
How Much does Tongariro Alpine Crossing Cost
Walk
There is no cost to book the Tongariro Alpine Crossing walk.
Hut Fees
Hut Fees for Tongariro Alpine Crossing vary depending on whether you are from New Zealand or are an international visitor, whether it is during the Great Walk season or outside of the Great Walk season and also, whether you are an adult or child.
During the Great Walks Season (late October to late April)
New Zealand citizens and those ordinarily resident in New Zealand.
Ngauruhoe from Mangatepōpō Campsite, Tongariro Alpine Crossing
Hut Fees
Adult (18+ years): $44 per person per, night
Child (5 to 17 years): $22 per person, per night
Campsite Fees
Adult (18+ years): $19 per person per, night
Child (5 to 17 years): $9 per person, per night
International visitors
Hut Fees
Adult (18+ years): $120 per person per, night
Child (5 to 17 years): $60 per person, per night
Campsite Fees
Adult (18+ years): $28 per person per, night
Child (5 to 17 years): $14 per person, per night
Outside the Great Walks Season (May to Late October)
For all visitors:
Adult (18+ years): $10 per person, per night
Child (5 to 17 years): $5 per person, per night
Mangatepōpō Campsite, Tongariro Alpine Crossing
Backcountry Hut Pass
Backcountry Hut Passes can only be used in this hut from 1 May to 24 October. Passes cannot be used from 25 October to 30 April.
Where is Tongariro Alpine Crossing
Tongariro Alpine Crossing is located in Tongariro National Park in the central North Island of New Zealand. It’s a four or five hour drive south from Auckland and north from Wellington.
Within the park, the alpine village, Whakapapa provides a visitor centre, a motor camp and a public shelter with toilets.
The closest towns to the Tongariro Alpine Crossing are Waimarino / National Park (20km), Turangi (43km) and Taupō (93km).
Where does Tongariro Alpine Crossing Start
Tongariro Alpine Crossing is linear and can be walked in either direction though the most popular way is to traverse from south to north.
The southern entry / exit trailhead is at the Mangatepōpō Road end, 20km from Waimarino / National Park.
The northern entry / exit trailhead is at Keretahi Road end 34km from Waimarino / National Park.
Getting to and from Tongariro Alpine Crossing
The road distance between the Mangatepōpō Road end and Keretahi Road end is 25km.
Tongariro Alpine Crossing Shuttle
Shuttles run regularly from Waimarino / National Park and Turangi to the Mangatepōpō Road end. They then collect regularly from the Keretahi Road end. When booking your shuttle, by default it will be a return journey.
Good To Know Distances
Hiking
Tongariro Alpine Crossing 20km (one day)
Driving
Whakapapa Visitor Centre to Mangatepōpō Road end, 16km, 20 minute drive
Waimarino / National Park to Mangatepōpō Road end, 20km, 21 minute drive
Turangi to Mangatepōpō Road end, 43km, 38 minutes drive
Taupō to Mangatepōpō Road end, 93km, 1 hour and 24 minute drive
Keretahi Road end to Mangatepōpō Road end, 25km, 25 minute drive
My Tongariro Alpine Crossing Statistics
The first time I traversed the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, the weather was perfect and I finished the trail thinking I’ll never need to do it again as there was no way I could improve on that experience.
Since then I’ve crossed multiple times over the summer months though yet to walk across in winter. No matter the weather, each crossing is a delight in its own way.
Have you walked or are you planning to walk any of New Zealands Great Walks? Share in the comment box your experience on the trails or what you’re most looking forward to.
Planning a trip to New Zealand
Useful Links for Your Travels
Get Your Guide - Unforgettable Travel Experiences - No matter where your travels take you, Get Your Guide offers the best way to connect with your destination. Make memories all over the globe with their locally-vetted, expertly-curated experiences. From must-see iconic attractions to unexpected under-the-radar gems, they have something for everyone.
Expedia - Expedia offers travellers a wide selection of accommodation, flights, package, activities and travel services at attractive rates. With hundreds of thousands of accommodation options worldwide and comprehensive choices of flights inventory made readily available on Expedia.co.nz, travellers can easily plan and book their trip
Skyscanner - Millions of cheap prices. One simple search Compare flight rates from 1000s of airlines and online travel agents to find the cheapest flight tickets to all major destinations. Once you find your best deal, book directly through the airline (no extra fees)
Safety Wing Insurance - Insurance for Nomads Nomad Insurance is a global travel medical insurance that covers people from all over the world, while outside their home country. You can buy it even if you are already abroad.
World Nomads - World Nomads travel insurance has been designed by travellers for travellers. If you leave home without travel insurance or your policy runs out, you can buy or extend while on the road.
We receive a fee when you get a quote from World Nomads using this link. We do not represent World Nomads. This is not a recommendation to buy travel insurance.
Express VPN - Express VPN is the world’s largest provider of VPN services, which enables users to protect their privacy and security online with just a few clicks.
Tripsim by SYD - Discount Code
E-SIM provider for Data. Tripsim helps travellers stay connected in over 190 destinations globally.
Use this link to receive 10% off your Tripism purchase or code FREEWHEELINGKIWI at checkout
Airalo - E-SIM provider for Data. Stay connected, wherever you travel, at affordable rates.
To receive US $3 off your Airalo purchase use my code SHARON9327 at checkout https://www.airalo.com/
Trusted House Sitters - The Freedom to Travel - Discover free and unique homestays around the world, in exchange for caring for adorable pets.
Discover Cars. Save up to 70% by comparing the best car rental deals from 700+ suppliers in 10000+ locations worldwide and FREE Cancellation.
Disclosure: My content is reader-supported, which means I may earn a small commission from links on Freewheeling Kiwi’s Assets if you make a purchase and at no cost to you. This is a way to support me so that I can keep sharing content and stories. Thanks in advance for your support.
Having just crested the Tongariro Alpine Crossing alongside the impressive Red Crater I gazed down the precipitous volcanic scree slope which sidled past the breathtaking Emerald Lakes. We’d planned to stop alongside the lakes and the only thing between me and my sandwich was this hair raising descent.
I weighed up the options and was attracted most by the plan to skid down on my butt so that I’d not tumble head over heels off the narrow spur. At this height, this felt a very real possibility!