Lake Waikaremoana Track - Great Walks Snapshot
As the boat started to plane I settled comfortably onto the seat to take in my surroundings while the dog, with his superior balance and having completed the journey dozens of times perched casually on the boat’s stern alongside the powerful 200HP Yamaha engine.
Cloudy skies with but the tiniest glimpses of blue dulled the summer’s day and added mystery to the deep indigo waters below. A huge bluff towered menacingly above us, foreshadowing the effort that lay ahead.
Densely forested mountains tumbled to the lakeside with thankfully, not a sign of human habitation to be seen. With it’s unique star shape it was hard to comprehend the entirety of the lake which I’d shortly attempt to walk around.
Lake Waikaremoana Great Walk Overview
Lake Waikaremoana Track offers more of a backcountry, off the beaten track experience than do the other New Zealand Great Walks. Located in Te Urewera, the track offers hikers immersion in a stunning natural wilderness which is home of the Ngai Tūhoe.
Highlights of the walk in Te Urewera include breathtaking views from Panekire Bluff, the spectacular Korokoro Falls, prehistoric podocarp forests, melodic birdsong and an ancient mountain range of lakes, valleys and peaks formed by landslides and storms.
Te Urewera
Te Urewera is recognised in New Zealand law as a living person. Te Urewera is spoken for and governed by a board. Care for Te Urewera, including the tracks and facilities, is carried out by Te Uru Taumatua – Ngāi Tūhoe’s operational entity.
Korokoro Falls, Lake Waikaremoana Track, New Zealand Great Walks
Korokoro Falls Side Trip
Not to be missed, the Korokoro Falls are a short, one hour side trip near the aptly names Korokoro Campsite. The falls drop off a sheer cliff amidst the rainforest into a tumbling stream.
Panekire Bluff
The best position to fully appreciate the unique star shape of the lake, the Panekire Bluff offers breathtaking views not only of the lake and it’s many bays and inlets but also of the surrounding Te Urewera. Te Urewera is the largest area of native forest in the North Island.
Panekire Bluff from Google Street View Don’t worry, the Google Car has not been here, it’s simply a camera position!
Panekire Bluff from water taxi, Lake Waikaremoana Track, New Zealand Great Walks
Lake Waikaremoana
The Lake Waikaremoana Track starts right on the shores of Lake Waikaremoana and although not a complete circuit, it may be walked in either direction.
Lake Waikaremoana Walking Options
When camped one summer at the beautiful Mokau Landing Campsite I was fortunate to spend time chatting with the local camp warden who had also been a ranger on the Great Walk. His recommendations held me in good stead when a year later I returned to walk the track.
Contrary to most advise, he suggested walking in an anti-clockwise direction which meant arriving at the Panekire Bluff on the last day of the walk. By then, not only is the walker trail fit, their backpack weighs less as they’ve eaten most of their food.
This also means that on Day 1, you will take a water taxi to the start of the track and any track that starts with a boat ride in my book, has to be a good track! I prefer this to trying to time my finishing of a track with a boat ride, for me it is more relaxing to simply walk out of a trail at my own pace.
Incidentally, it was while camped at the magical Mokau Landing that the concept behind the Freewheeling Kiwi was conceived and I feel a deeply spiritual connection to this whenua.
Lake Waikaremoana Track, New Zealand Great Walks
Best Time to Visit the Lake Waikaremoana Track
The best time to visit Lake Waikaremoana Track is during the Great Walks season which is from the end of October until the end of April. It’s possible to walk the track outside of the Great Walks season however there’s fewer facilities and in all likelihood, the weather will be challenging.
Swingbridge, Lake Waikaremoana Track, New Zealand Great Walks
How Long is the Lake Waikaremoana Track
In total, the lake Waikaremoana Track is 43 kilometres one way.
This track can be walked either clockwise or anticlockwise which is my recommendation and how I will describe it below.
In an anticlockwise direction, the track begins at Onepoto Wharf with a charter boat/water taxi to the Hopuruahine Landing.
Waiharuru Campsite, Lake Waikaremoana Track, New Zealand Great Walks
It then continues past the Tapuaenui Campsite, Waiharuru Hut and Campsite, Marauiti Hut, Maraunui Campsite, Korokoro Campsite, Korokoro Falls (side trip) Waiopaoa Hut and Campsite, Panekire Hut, Panekire Bluff and then it’s downhill to the Onepoto Shelter and Trail Head.
Lake Waikaremoana from Panekire Bluff, Waikaremoana Track, New Zealand Great Walks
As you’ve read, there’s four huts and five campsites on Lake Waikaremoana which must be booked in advance.
Lake Waikaremoana Track Itinerary
The standard Lake Waikaremoana Track Itinerary is four days and three nights. Contrary to many of the Great Walks, there’s many options for overnight stops also allowing for you to skip past huts and campsites if not needed.
In total, there’s four huts and five campsites, some of the huts have an adjoining campsite and in other places the campsites are in a completly different bay.
Tailer your itinerary to match up with your arrival time at the Onepoto Trailhead, if you’re coming from elsewhere, a short walk on Day 1 may suit you. With both of the following itineraries, you’ll have time to make the side trip to Korokoro Falls as well as swim in the lake.
You can stay at the nearby Waikaremoana Holiday Park before or after walking the track. It has a range of accommodation including tent sites, cabins and chalets.
Ancient Podocarp Forest, Lake WaikaremoanaTrack New Zealand Great Walks
Lake Waikaremoana Track Camping
I chose to camp and this anticlockwise itinerary is from my own trip.
Lake Waikaremoana Track Day 1 Itinerary
Onepoto Wharf to Hopuruahine Landing (private charter/water taxi).
Walk from Hopuruahine Landing to Waiharuru Campsite
Time: 2h 29 m (hike)
Distance: 8.54 km
Elevation: 131m
Lake Waikaremoana Track Day 2 Itinerary
Waiharuru Campsite to Korokoro Campsite
Time: 5h 26m
Distance: 19.16 km
Elevation: 352m
Lake Waikaremoana Track Day 3 Itinerary
Korokoro Campsite to Korokoro Waterfall to Waiopaoa Campsite
Time: 2h 9m
Distance: 7.75km
Elevation: 64m
Lake Waikaremoana Track Day 4 Itinerary
Waiopaoa Campsite to Onepoto Shelter and Village
Time: 5h 46m
Distance: 21.05km
Elevation: 1003m
Lake Waikaremoana Track Huts
This second itinerary is using huts and traveling in a clockwise direction. The suggested times are from DOC.
Day 1 - Onepoto to Panekire Hut
Time: 4-6hrs
Distance: 8.8km
Day 2 - Panekire Hut to Waiopaoa Hut
Time: 3-4hrs
Distance: 7.6km
Day 3 - Waiopaoa Hut to Marauiti Hut
Time: 4hrs 30 mins
Distance: 12.1km
Day 4 - Marauiti Hut to Hopuruahine Landing
Time: 6hrs
Distance: 15.7km
Weather Conditions at Lake Waikaremoana
Lake Waikaremoana lies between altitudes of 600 and 1200 m and the weather is changeable. Cold temperatures, snow, strong winds and heavy rain can occur at any time of the year, including summer. Te Urewera is a rainforest, so tracks can become muddy.
At the end of the first day I was brave enough for a quick dip, by the second day it was raining and cool.
Who can walk the Lake Waikaremoana Track
Lake Waikaremoana Track is one of New Zealand’s Great Walks with a clearly defined trail. The facilities are not however to the same standard as the other Great Walks.
The most challenging section is ascending and descending the Panekire Bluff with its high elevation. On top, there’s side tracks to the edge of the Bluff to allow for a greater view of the lake and surrounding forests. In windy conditions, extra care would be needed and in any conditions, hold on to your kids!
Onepoto, Lake Waikaremoana Track, New Zealand Great Walks
Can You Walk the Lake Waikaremoana Track without a Guide
Lake Waikaremoana Track may be walked independently of a guide and as a Great Walk, it is very well signposted with plenty of directional signs and markers. When you walk without a Guide, you will use the Department of Conservation facilities which are the ones referenced in my article.
On other Great Walks and during the season, you’ll find a ranger stationed at each hut who will check you in around the time you arrive. At night, the ranger then gives a hut talk to alert you as to what’s coming, weather updates, the tracks history and condition, what to look out for and other useful information. They’ll also update the noticeboard early in the morning with the latest weather forecast.
I walked the Lake Waikaremoana Track in peak season (27 December 2022) and saw no DOC rangers, Tūhoe wardens or track crews for the entire four days.
As the Lake Waikaremoana Track can be walked in either direction, you’ll likely encounter new people in the huts and campsites each night. This can be a great way to share up to the minute updates on the track ahead.
Waiharuru Campsite, Lake Waikaremoana Track, New Zealand Great Walks
Lake Waikaremoana Track Facilities
Lake Waikaremoana Track is a New Zealand Great Walk and you will need to pre-book your trip online.
Most people take four days and three nights. There’s four huts; Panekire, Waiopaoa, Marauiti and Waiharuru Huts and five campsites; Waiopaoa, Korokoro, Maraunui, Waiharuru and Tapuaenui Campsites which all need to be booked well in advance of the Great Walk season.
The huts have basic facilities and the communal bunk rooms have bunks and mattresses. Huts on the Lake Waikaremoana Great Walk don't have gas cooking facilities, lighting or toilet paper. When I walked, many of the taps and water supply were in particularly poor condition and I recommend taking a water filter. At times, I simply used water directly from the lake rather than from a broken water tank!
Remember to take a portable stove and fuel, candles and toilet paper with you. Some provisions are available at the Lake Waikaremoana Holiday Park store.
Ferns, Lake Waikaremoana Track, New Zealand Great Walks
Lake Waikaremoana Track Mobile and Emergency Communications
There’s limited mobile phone coverage in much of Te Urewera and no coverage for most of the track. I was able to connect from Panekire Hut and Bluff.
I recommend you take your emergency communication device and familiarise yourself with how to use it before heading onto the trail
How Much does Lake Waikaremoana Track Cost
Hut and Campsite Fees
Hut and Campsite Fees for Lake Waikaremoana Track vary depending on whether you are a New Zealand or International visitor and whether you are an adult or child. It’s the same fee year round.
New Zealand Visitors
Hut Fees
Adult (18+ years): $32 per person per, night
Child (0 to 17 years): Free per person, per night
Campsite Fees
Adult (18+ years): $14 per person per, night
Child (0 to 17 years): Free per person, per night
International Visitors
Hut Fees
Adult (18+ years): $32 per person per, night
Child (0 to 17 years): Free per person, per night
Campsite Fees
Adult (18+ years): $14 per person per, night
Child (5 to 17 years): Free per person, per night
How to Book
Decide what direction you’d like to walk the track in, you can go from Onepoto in the south or Hopuruahine in the north.
Water taxi and shuttle services are available to both ends, but book early.
If you have your own vehicle, public parking is closest at Onepoto (at the Waikaremoana Holiday Park or Te Urewera Visitor Centre at Te Kura Whenua). See parking information. I was fortunately able to leave my vehicle at the home of the water taxi skipper in Onepoto.
The track goes up to Panekire Hut so this could be tackled at the start or left to the end of your walk.
If you're not booking in peak times, check the weather forecast and plan to be on the Panekire Range in the best weather - when it's clear, the views are impressive.
Decide what huts or campsites you want to stay at
For the direction you want to walk in, decide what huts or campsites you want to stay at.
Consider:
Location of huts and campsites on the track – huts and campsites are not always in the same location.
Drop off and pick up times of the water taxi.
Decide the date you want to stay at each hut or campsite and check availability. If there’s not the availability, see if you can adjust your itinerary, choose a mix of huts and campsites, walk in the opposite direction or change your starting date.
Where is the Lake Waikaremoana Track
Lake Waikaremoana Track is located in Te Urewera, Hawkes Bay. The Lake is situated south east of Rotorua and south west of Gisborne in the North Island of Aotearoa, New Zealand.
The closest towns for supplies are Murupara, Rotorua and Wairoa. The Hawkes Bay regional centre is Napier.
Waikaremoana can be approached from two directions on State Highway 38 which runs from Waiotapu in the north to Wairoa on the East Coast. SH38 passes Te Karetu where Te Urewera Visitor Centre (Te Kura Whenua) and the Waikaremoana Holiday Park are located.
To call it a highway is stretching the imagination and the road has a gravel surface for about 90 km between Murupara (north of Te Karetu and Tuai (south of Te Karetu). This may be difficult for lower vehicles and 4WD/SUV is recommended.
If driving there, check first with the New Zealand Transport Agency to ensure the road is open particularly after storms.
Onepoto, Lake Waikaremoana Track, New Zealand Great Walks
Where does the Lake Waikaremoana Track Start
Lake Waikaremoana Track is a linear track which can be walked in either direction. Most descriptions describe it in a clockwise direction and consequently, this is the direction the majority of people walk.
The Lake Waikaremoana has two trail heads and walkers can travel to either end of the walk via water taxi. Be sure to book early.
The Onepoto Bay trail head can be driven to, it’s located just of State Highway 38 near the small settlement of Onepoto.
The Hopuruahine Landing trail head can be approached by a combination of driving and walking via the Hopuruahine Road. Note, the road is not suited to 2WD vehicles. Most hikers take the water taxi.
Getting to and from the Lake Waikaremoana Track
Lake Waikaremoana Holiday Park is 3hrs 15mins from Rotorua Central Business District. From Wairoa, it is 1hr 9 mins.
Hopuruahine Road is not currently suitable for 2WD vehicles. This may impact access to Hopuruahine Landing Great Walk car park.
The start of the track at Onepoto is approximately 15 mins drive from Lake Waikaremoana Holiday Park.
Shuttle
I was unable to find a shuttle from Rotorua and drove myself.
Water Taxi
I caught a water taxi with a local operator that lived in Onepoto, we went from Onepoto to the Hopuruahine Landing.
This was very convenient as I was able to leave my vehicle at his home and simply walk back out on completion of the trail. Do a google search to find who is currently operating.
Tūhoe offers a water taxi service to and from each end of the Great Walk, and to individual huts and campsites around the lake, out of Te Urewera Visitor Centre (Te Kura Whenua) near Lake Waikaremoana Holiday Park.
The water taxi service is usually available from October to April. It is not available during the winter season.
Lake Waikaremoana Track, New Zealand Great Walks
Good To Know Distances
Hiking
Lake Waikaremoana Track 43km (four days, three nights)
Te Urewera Visitor Centre / Lake Waikaremoana Holiday Park to Onepoto Trail Head Car Park 9km, 2hrs walking
Driving
Rotorua iSite Visitor Information Centre to Onepoto, Lake Waikaremoana 168km, 3hrs 28mins driving
Wairoa iSite Visitor Information Centre to Onepoto, Lake Waikaremoana 55km, 55min
Napier iSite Visitor Information Centre to Onepoto, Lake Waikaremoana 164km, 2hrs 33min
My Lake Waikaremoana Track Statistics
I walked the track in peak season however there was plenty of space available in the huts and more so in the campsites. I chose to camp.
📅 Date: 27/12/20222 - 30/12/2022
☀️Weather: New Zealand Summer; fine, rain, cloudy, sunny
🌲Location: Lake Waikaremoana Track, Urewera National Park, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
⛺️ Accommodation: New Zealand Great Walk Campsites.
📖 Bookings Required for the Lake Waikaremoana Track: pre-book your trip online.
Korokoro Stream crossing, Lake Waikaremoana Track, New Zealand Great Walks
Have you walked or are you planning to walk any of New Zealands Great Walks? Share in the comment box your experience on the trails or what you’re most looking forward to.
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As the boat started to plane I settled comfortably onto the seat to take in my surroundings while the dog, with his superior balance and having completed the journey dozens of times perched casually on the boat’s stern alongside the powerful 200HP Yamaha engine.
Cloudy skies with but the tiniest glimpses of blue dulled the summer’s day and added mystery to the deep indigo waters below. A huge bluff towered menacingly above us, foreshadowing the effort that lay ahead.